A Shout Out!

I want to thank Madame V for her kind invitation and generous hospitality during our stay in Bretagne. Merci aussi pour le gateaux, cadeau, et des luminieres farce! Thanks JP for the beautiful music, it added much to the ambience. Also for your shoes. Thanks to Christine for picking me up at the station and shuttling us around, also for teaching me that mackeral is yummy! Last but not least, I want to express my heartfelt thanks to the inventor of the remote control fart machine. ('Nuff said)

L'Appel du 18 Juin

Today marked a very important date in French history, the 70th anniversary of General Charles de Gaulle's famous call to arms, known as "L'Appel du 18 Juin". Every bit as famous and important to France as Dr. King's "I Have a Dream" speech is to America, it galvanized a nation into action, inspiring millions to fight the oppressive hand of the Nazi regime. Broadcast from England where de Gaulle, (a relatively unknown officer in the French Army) had journeyed to forge a collaboration with Churchill and lay the foundation for his "Free France" movement of resistance, it is as moving today as it was 70 years ago. To commemorate the occasion is an exhibition at Paris' Hotel de Ville (City Hall). I had decided I would go, and asked Madame M if she wanted to accompany me, ignorant of the fact that the day I had chosen, (today), was the actual anniversary! As I approached the plaza I could hear the recording of his speech which plays on loudspeakers at regular intervals. Installed in front of the magnificent HdV is a ginormous collage of de Gaulle, assembled with a thousand faces of brave members of the Resistance. It is really quite beautiful. Inside the exhibition tent one finds the stories of ordinary people who were called upon to do the extraordinary, risking life and limb, torture and sacrifice for the liberation of France. My eyes welled with tears and my voice was choked with emotion as I looked at the beautiful faces of Simone Michel-Levy, tortured (but never talked) and hung naked to die at Camp Flossenburg, and 14 year old Mathurin Henrico (codename "Barrioz") who was shot by Geman soldiers as he attempted to warn his neighbors of their arrival. "My heart is calm, as is my spirit" were the last words of Madame Michel-Levy (codename "Emma"). It is a common misconception of many Americans that the french stood idly by during the occupation, nothing could be further from the truth! They felt (and rightfully) sold out by Marshall Pètain and the Vichy accord, many did what they could working underground, whilst others defied the law by joining de Gaulles military forces (this was considered treason under Vichy law.) All in all, it is a great tribute to the brave men and women of France, and to a great leader, General Charles de Gaulle! The exhibition is free of charge, and can be experienced from now until the 4th of July.

Paris d'Amour

Love, Romance, and Paris. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, dark chocolate and Bordeaux, Tracy and Hepburn. Naturally I was drawn to the latest exhibition at the Hotel de Ville, entitled "Paris d'Amour". A sweet and touching collection of photographs by artist Gerard Uferas, the theme is marraige - from beautiful brides in preparation for their big day to the gaiety of celebrations after the exchange of vows. Multi-ethnic traditions, same sex pax's, May-September romance, Uferas stresses tolerance and freedom of expression with this project. It is a delightful exhibition that I highly recommend! You can enjoy it through the 31st of July, from 10h-19h everyday except sundays and holidays, and admission is free. You can also visit the artist on his website: http://www.gerarduferas.com/

Little Gems: Maison Auer

There is nothing I love more than a beautiful chocolatier who fabricates beautiful chocolates. It is a secret desire of mine to learn the craft of creating little boxes, rabbits and lambs, and giant sculptures in my favorite medium: Caocao! My last day in Nice, Madame M and I happened upon a gorgeous magasin, le "Maison Auer". Founded in 1820, family owned and operated, the Florentine decor catches the eye and draws one inside to discover a plethera of tasty treats. Chocolates crafted in house, candied fruits, a variety of honeys and confitures (jams and jellies), traditional cakes and nougat, even fruit liquers, the Maison Auer has it all! The perfect place for gift shopping, they have delicious ideas in every price range. Open tuesday through saturday 9-1:30 p.m. then again at 2:30-6 p.m. you can find them at 7 rue Saint François de Paule in beautiful downtown Nice, or visit their website at http://www.maison-auer.com/ C'est magnifique!

La Cote d'Azur: In the mountains

Nestled in the mountains above Nice are little gems; quaint villages established by the Romans centuries before Christ, beautiful chateaus, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean sea. As we wound our way up the sharp curving road, Madame M told me the story of the most expensive chateau in the world, located in these very hills. Inherited from her family, extremely private, gated, and protected by security cameras installed at every angle, Madame was approached by a nouveau-riche Russian gentleman who coveted the property. He made an offer of several millions of euro. Madame refused. He countered, offering more. Again, he was rebuked. Like an obssesed lover, he refused to give up, he had to have this chateau! Finally, he made an offer she could not refuse, 500 million euro! He paid the required deposit of 10%, (50 mill) and then the crisis hit. The world financial market bottomed out, and he was unable to complete the deal. He lost his prestigious dream home and his 50 million dollar deposit in one fell swoop. Ah the folly of the nouveau riche. Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a scenic viewpoint for a look at Cap Ferrat. The water was a deep blue, with patches of aquamarine, so clear we could see the red rocks below the surface. Beautiful yachts were anchored in the cove, this is obviously the place to be. Further up the mountain we pulled into a little public parking lot overlooking the principality of Monaco. We were in the charming village of La Turbie. Keeping watch from above, an ancient tower erected between 25-14 B.C. signified the presence of Roman rule over the territory. An archway beckoned us to enter and explore the mysterious little streets, a maze of dwellings built long ago and inhabited today by friendly neighbors. Peaceful, uber cute, and seemingly out of a storybook, I fell in love! Coming out the other end we discovered a beautiful church, l'Eglise Michel-Ange. Exquisitely painted, light and calm, the energy there inspired this agnostic to light a candle. After an afternoon of eye candy we had quite the appetite, and found a restaurant overlooking the bay, every bit as charming as the whole of La Turbie. I could have stayed forever, but alas! It was time to move on, back down the mountain, passing by homes one can only dream of owning-large and small. As the sun set on the sea we returned to Antibes, but my heart remains in La Turbie!

La Cote d'Azur: Cannes

Having spent a lifetime hearing about the famous film festival of Cannes, enjoying photographs of moviestars in beautiful designer gowns and absorbing the mythology of the glamour that surrounds the town, I was eager to visit. The day dawned beautiful and bright, and Madame M and I packed a picnic lunch to be enjoyed on the beach, dressed in something appropriately chic (I hoped), and headed for posh town. With visions of Grace Kelly sitting on the beach as Cary Grant emerges from the sea in Hitchcock's "To Catch a Thief" (one of my favorite movies), we entered via the seaside route, and cruised parallel to "La Croisette", the famous promenade of Bardot, Truffaut, and Brangelina. The elegant Carlton hotel commanded attention, as a beautiful high maintenance woman is wont to do, and huge cruise ships trolled the harbour like giant slugs. We were extraordinarily lucky to find parking just in front of Dior, and enjoyed windowshopping high end boutiques before making our way to the beach for lunch. Freakishly quiet, sans children or the sound of waves crashing, we settled in amongst privileged vacationers sunning on the immaculately maintained sand. We were limited by 2 hour parking however, so after lunch we took a short walk on the promenade, took a few photos, and headed out of town toward the Chateau de la Napoloue, passing the exposition hall and the famous steps of the "Tapis Rouge" (the red carpet). Reality not always living up to fantasy however, I must say in all honesty that while Cannes has it's moments of beauty, it isn't all it's cracked up to be! Crowded in next to the elegance of the Martinez and the Carlton are ugly apartment buildings built in the late 60's-70's, the sort one sees in anytown U.S.A. - the sort that don't age well. Gazing up into the surrounding neighborhoods I saw non-descript homes, so unlike those of Antibes or Nice as to be suprising. On the outskirts are funky industrial zones which occupy beachfront property. With all due respect, we didn't explore the sidestreets, I am sure there are charming neighborhoods in Cannes. But I guess I imagined Cannes to be what Antibes is - elegant, chic and well maintained all the way, not funkytown! When all is said and done, I am glad to have experienced it, and wouldn't mind at all having a birdseye view of the insanity that is the film festival - from a terrace high above La Croisette at the Carlton of course!

La Cote d'Azur: Nice

Everyone should visit Nice at least once during their lifetime. The light, the colours, and the ambiance are seductive, and one finds everything from ancient Roman ruins to the ultra modern "La Tete au Carré", an office building perched high atop a sculpted noggin. The picturesque harbor is edged with structures painted in the typical earthen hues of the region; mustard and terra cotta in varying shades from intense to pastel, accented with greens and blues. Open air markets in old town offer everything from dried lavender to fresh strawberries, olive oil and dried sausage. The mountain roads wind sharply, leading one up through terraced neighborhoods that offer stunning views of a sea shimmering in the hot sun. Swimmers cool off deeply tanned bodies barely covered by speedos and thongs whilst tourists wander the narrow streets of "Old Nice" shopping for souvenirs and snapping photos. The piazzas are crowded with locals as well as visitors, who stop for a drink at the cafés which surround the ever present fountain, this is where one gathers to gossip and share the news of the day. Small groups of male "Nicoise" gather around tiny tables in the shade to play cards, beautiful girls negotiate scooters through the crowd, homemakers hang their laundry out to dry from third level windows. Away from the hustle and bustle of old town one discovers the ruins of Roman bathhouses, arenas, and the first Catholic church in Nice, dating back to the time of Christ. Open to the public, it is possible to stroll through the crumbling foundations of history all the while marveling at its modern day existence. It is a fairytale city, rich in culture with many stories to tell. I was sorry to depart, but there was more to see of the Cote d'Azur. Next stop: Cannes!

La Cote d'Azur: Antibes

I took a trip to heaven last week on the shores of the Mediterranean sea in the south of France. Honored to be invited by a friend, blessed with beautiful weather and arriving just before seasonal visitors crowd every spare inch of beach, I was fortunate to have a knowledgeable guide to the area. First stop: The very beautiful and very chic Antibes. Winding roads lead around the sea offering tiny private coves, the water clear and aquamarine lapping the rocky shoreline. Parasol pines unique to the region grace the landscape, the snow capped French Alps in the distance provide a stunning backdrop, and boats both large and small are to be seen everywhere. The homes are built for the comfort of the uber rich, the boutiques cater to the nouveau-riche with money to burn (and questionable taste). Restaurants line the promenade next to the beach, and to my surprise tables are set up on the sand for dining served by a barefooted wait staff! The harbour is home to giant yachts and elegant bayliners, as well as sleek racing vessels that were being prepped by well tanned and muscular crewmen for the upcoming annual regatta. The focal point of Antibes is the Musée Picasso which is housed in a castle-esque structure overlooking the bay surrounded by quiet little narrow passageways, the old village of Antibes. In the center of old town an open air market offers fresh fruits and vegetables for sale in the morning. Then the vendors disappear and are replaced with bistro tables for the lunch crowd to sit and enjoy a sandwich, a beer, or a refreshing glace. Little shops sell the usual touristic kitsch; T shirts, postcards and brightly coloured flotation devices, but the real fun is to explore the little streets where you will find a charming old church, a cat perched on a windowsill, and potted flowers accessorizing the front stoop of an ancient dwelling. The peaceful ambiance of old Antibes is in juxtaposition to the excesses of wealthy partiers who will arrive soon to dance in trendy nightclubs until dawn, bathe in Cristal, (literally-they prefer to waste the finest champagne rather than drink it) and snort bowls of cocaine. It is the joie de vivre, the joy of life!