Tuesday, December 29, 2009

The Wedding Crashers


There is so much to experience in Paris I often feel as if I could spend a lifetime here and never really know her. She is mysterious, full of complexity, and above all stunningly beautiful. Her treasures are many, among them the quietly elegant Les Invalides. Serving at once as an armory, veterans hospital, and private chapel to kings dating back to 1674, it is best known as the tomb of Napoleon. It is a favorite place to take friends visiting from out of town, and I always discover somethng new and interesting in this multi-faceted gem of a landmark. From cannons fired in battle centuries ago to a museum dedicated to each branch of the military, it is to be savored slowly with attention to detail. I have glimpsed rows of armour hung meticulously in rows catalogued like library books and pondered the battles waged by brave soldiers in the age of chivalry. I have seen the modern day veteran taking the sun as they are cared for in the hospital which serves them still. Napoleon's infamous (and freakishly small) waistcoat was on display for a short time, as were letters written to Josephine and various members of his cabinet. The beautiful dome of the chapel is decorated with 12 kilos of gold leaf which gleams in the sun and catches the eye from miles away. I am fortunate to have a view of Les Invalides from my attic apartment, and never does a day go by that it doesn't take my breath away! I decided it was a must see during my sisters holiday visit. It had snowed the night before and the air was crisp and clean. The grounds were embellished in silvery white, sparkling in the early afternoon sun. We visited the tomb of the Emperor first, then I led Karen to the cathédral Saint-Louis des Invalides. I wanted her to see the ancient standards hanging along each side of the chapel, captured from enemies defeated as France expanded her realm. As we entered we passed a handsome soldier in dress uniform who appeared to be standing guard at the chapel door. There was a beautiful choir singing quietly, adding a magical ambience. As we stood there absorbing the sensuality of the moment - the sound of the choir, the beautiful light streaming through the windows, the energy of a place steeped in history, we noticed several men of various ages in military dress entering the chapel. There was obviously an event about to take place. Soon women in hats began to arrive and take their places in the pews. Was this a funeral of a veteran? Our curiosity was satisfied when we saw the children, four adorable little bridesmaids dressed beautifully in aqua dresses accentuated with taupe sashes and a little boy dressed in traditional breeches and possesing a gregarious smile. There was time to spare before the ceremony and they immediately found a way to have some fun, a vent in the floor gave the girls the Marilyn Monroe flying skirt effect! They squealed with delight as their full skirts ballooned above their waists and grandmaman anxiously fussed over making them look perfect again. Being the hopeless romantic I am (and possesing no small amount of chutzpah) we decided to take a seat and wait for the blushing bride. We were a little uneasy, unsure of whether we would face the embarrassment of being asked to leave, but to the contrary we were offered a program. We were to witness the nuptials of Perrine et Pierre-Henri. I readied my camera for madamoiselles big entrance as the strains of the huge pipe organ filled the room. The young attendants took their places, and a few latecomers rushed in a panic to find their seats. The wedding procession began and the beautiful Perrine was escorted by her father to her husband to be dressed in elegant simplicity. I captured her on film then we quietly ducked out, opting to forgoe cake and champagne (and a lengthy catholic wedding) for the Musée Rodin. What an unexpected pleasure. I wish Perrine and Pierre-Henri every happiness!

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