One of the greatest pleasures of parisian life is discovering little gems hidden in plain sight around the city. The Théatre des Bouffes du Nord is one of those little gems, which I found last monday night thanks to my trusty sidekick Viviane: Goddess of Cultural Events. She invited me to a concert of classical music, and I readily accepted. Access to theatre, music, opera and dance is why I love Paris, it's a veritable candy store of cultural delights! You can satisfy your cravings 7 nights a week with any flavour that suits you, from classic vanille to rocky road. We traveled across town via metro ligne 2 to "St. Chappelle", in the indian quarter of Montmarte. (Note to self: return for Indian cuisine). The theatre is kitty corner to the metro, which pleased me immensely as it was -2° outside, and we scurried across the street to be greeted by two young parisiennes offering programs and a friendly welcome. V had called ahead for reservations, and out billets were waiting when we arrived. The foyer is simple, with a friendly little bar to the right and a pleasant looking café to the left. Our seats were on the first balcony and we ascended the worn wooden staircase, the boards creaking and groaning beneath us. Built in 1876 almost entirely of wood, it's narrow aisles arranged in the round and capable of seating 3 balconies of audience is at once charming and alarming-it appears a veritable firetrap! We found our seats, relaxed and perused the program. It was to begin with Johannes Brahms and after the entracte, "La Nuit Transfigurée" by Arnold Schoenberg. The musicians were Ilya Gringolts on violin, Marc Coppey on viola, and François-Frederic Guy on piano. I wasn't familiar with these particular compositions, and was eager to experience something new. The artists didn't disappoint- they were first rate musicians, and their choices for the evening led us on a journey layered with sensualité and emotion. My eyes wandered around the theatre as I listened to the music, and I imagined the bold production of 1882, "Revolutionaire Nadine" by the anarchist Louis Michel being performed in this very space. In her 134 year history, the Théatre des Bouffes du Nord has closed her doors twice (once for non payment of actors by the managment), changed her name, (and changed it back again) and survived vaudeville. Today she offers a variety of music and theatre, and according to V, always quality. I plan to return soon, and to try the café after the performance. If you wish to experience this little gem for yourself, they have a very comprehensive website. Simply go to: www.bouffesdunord.com , make your reservation, and enjoy your evening out!
I totally agree BBDP!
ReplyDeleteYou have been introduced to Peter Brook's very lair that has midwifed all of his parisian shakespeare productions over the last two decades, he still has an eye on whats playing and its not unusually to see him amongst the audience; neddless to say, i know nothing about the music programmation (except that the virtuoisi Karen Vour'ch sang there in Septembre), but the theatre programmation never dissapoints!