"C'est dans la rue, que ça se passe!"

I attended my first manifestation (demonstration) yesterday, and what an event! Taking to the streets in a show of solidarity is a national sport here, and the french do it with their unique sense of style. First you gather at the designated point of departure, meet up with friends and colleagues, smoke a few cigarettes and maybe have something to eat whilst waiting for the event to get rolling, usually a minimum of an hour late. Festive music blares from loudspeakers atop vans, vendors sell food and drink (alcohol included of course), big balloons float above with the logos of various union syndicates displayed. Yesterdays manifestation was about retirement and pension issues. Since the mid 1980's the age of retirement has been 60 years, down from age 65 as it was historically in France. As President Sarkozy attempts to balance the budget, a program has been drafted to raise the age of retirement to 62 or 63 years of age, AND cut each pensioners benefits. By how much is unclear, as the government has been ambiguous during negotiations with the unions regarding the actual numbers. Some people are just a year away from retirement, only to discover they will have to work another two or three years to receive their pension! And now they aren't sure how much they will have to live on when the day comes. So, along with my friend who is a secretary for the largest union in France, (CGT) and roughly 90,000 others I marched, chanted, and raised my fist for power to the people. There were over 176 manifestations throughout France yesterday, with 6 of the 7 unions represented. Union syndicates are a bit different here, one can choose to join any of the seven which represent all trades unlike in America where truckers belong to the Teamsters, auto workers belong to the UAW, and so on. I saw very few police, most being stationed in the metro at Bastille where the march ended, and no violence. It was exciting to march by cafés and see people join in the chant, raising their fists in support-one man was dressed in the traditional striped suit of a jailed prisoner with a sign that decried having to work for the man any longer than age 60. There were anesthesiologists (who held a huge manifestation of their own throughout France last week which included a massive sit in on the tracks of Gare Montparnasse, blocking commuter traffic all day long), auto workers, textile workers, and construction workers. The latter held placards stating their belief that the age of retirement should be 55. When we reached the Place du Bastille there were hundreds of Persons sans Papiers, African immigrants who work with temporary permits in restaurants, paying taxes but receiving no health or any other form of benefits. Assembled on the steps of the opera house they were beautiful, a black sea of humanity. Unfortunately I had been overexcited at the beginning of the event and shot my wad early, using up my cameras battery power in the first 30 minutes so I was not able to capture this very moving scene for you! My friend and I donated a few centime for their cause, as they are currently on strike without wages. Upon reaching our destination we located a café and sat to rest our tired feet and take a cup of tea before heading home. Will the manifestation be successful in convincing the government to rethink their program and consider raising the money they need by taxing the huge profits made by investment banks, hedge fund operators, and kazillionaires? It remains to be seen. In mid June the program will be sent to the Assemblé Nationale for voting - just when the citizenry of France begin their vacations and are distracted by the Coupe du Monde (World Cup). Pretty tricky eh? The next manifestation I will attend is June 12th, the theme being women's rights. I have already planned my placard, it will say: "Femmes sans soutien-gorge" (women without bras)! You can enjoy the experience of yesterdays march with me on my Youtube channel, "Bonbondeparis". "C'est dans la rue, que ça se passe"! It's in the street that all have arrived.......

Portico Quartet

The 10th annual festival "Jazz à St.Germain des Prés" is in full swing in Paris, and Madame M suggested we take in one of the free concerts offered today at the Hotel Lutetia. Upon arrival however, we discovered there had been a misprint on the schedule of events and the concert was not free, in fact the tariff was 23 euro! Just a little disappointed as we are both trying to watch our budgets, we nearly abandoned our plans, but ultimately decided to pay the price and see what the Portico Quartet had to offer. It turned out to be an excellent decision, and worth every centime. Generally speaking I am more inclined toward swing, bebop, and the standards than "free jazz", but the Portico Quartet has a talent for blending melody, unusual sounds that leave you at once suprised and delighted with a haunting emotion. Considering themselves to be more "indie rock" than free jazz, this young band of musicians in their twenties posess a sophistication beyond their years. Winners of a Mercury Prize nomination and a recording session at the Abbey Road studios with producer and talent scout John Leckie, they were signed by Peter Gabriel to his Real World label. They released their first album in April, entitled "Isla", and are enjoying great success touring Europe. Join me in the audience on my Youtube channel Bonbondeparis, and if you like what you hear you can find them on MySpace or simply Google "Portico Quartet."

Edvard Munch: Artist Extraordinaire 1863-1944

I spent a lovely afternoon yesterday at the Pinacothèque de Paris with my darling Miss V, who invited me to join her for lunch and the exhibition of artist Edvard Munch, "Ou l'Anti-Cri". Unfamiliar with Monsieur Munch, or so I thought, of course he was the composer of the famous "Scream", (the painting, not the horror film) the exhibition was as the title infers, everything but this well known piece. Thoughtfully executed, very interesting, and highly moving, I discovered an artist of many moods. Unlucky in love, suffering much tragedy in his youth including the death of his mother and siblings from tuberculosis and later the violent death of his father, rejection of his work by his contemporaries and the public, his work is often dark yet always cutting edge. He experimented with Impressionism, Naturalism, and Symolism, creating beautiful landscapes in oil, interesting and contoversial engravings, and colourful portraits. The variety exhibited in this show was suprising to say the least! When one sees the work of Monet, Degas, Rodin, one recognizes immediately the hand of each. Munch was not to be boxed in however, and even though one recognizes a certain style in his work, the difference between Vampire II and Pécheur au bord de l'eau is astonishing. Photographs being forbidden inside the exhibition, I purchased a small book in the gallery boutique and have created a slideshow to share with you representing the eclectic works of Edvard Munch. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! You can visit in person until the 18th of July daily from 10:30 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. with the last tickets being sold at 5:15. Tariff 10 euro. Located at 28 Place du Madeleine, metro lignes 8, 12, and 14, station Madeleine, sortie Place du Madeleine.

Victor Hugo: Author, Poet, Statesman

On my list of 'things to do' was to pay a visit to the Maison de Victor Hugo. Located in the Marais, on the southeast corner of the historic Place du Vosges, you will find the interesting yet somewhat sparse apartment of this great luminary of the 19th century. Best known to the world as the author of Notre Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre Dame, as it is known in english) and Les Misérables, I was suprised to discover he was also a poet as well as a prolific artist, producing some 4,000 drawings in his lifetime! Born in 1802 to parents of differing mindset-his mother was a Catholic-Royalist, his father was a general in Napoleons army, he ultimately rejected his catholic education and became a champion of Republicanism and Freethought. He was also a humanist, later in life he convinced Queen Victoria to spare the lives of six Irish who were convicted of terrorism and sentenced to death, and influenced the removal of the death penalty from the constitutions of Geneva, Portugal, and Colombia. He served in the Senate and National Assembly, and was a founding member of the Association Littéraire et Artistique Internationale, which led to the Berne Convention for the Protection of Literary and Artistic Works (copyright law). His famous novel Notre Dame de Paris was so popular it shamed city administrators into restoring the famous chapel which had fallen into disrepair, and he was instrumental in saving from destruction the ancient Roman ruins at the Place du Monge, which had been discovered during a redevelopment project taking place in the neighborhood. Over 100 operas were influenced by his work including Verdi's Rigoletto, Donizetti's Lucrezia Borgia, and Ponchielli's La Gioconda. His drawings were admired by Van Gogh and Delacroix, the latter once saying that if he had decided to become a painter he would have outshone the artists of their century. He was not spared his share of tragedy however, his beloved daughter Leopoldine drowned in the river Seine at Villequier at the tender age of 19, being dragged under by the voluminous folds of her skirt. He heard the news while vacationing with his mistress, reading it in a newspaper whilst at a café. He is said to have never recovered, and set his grief to poetry. Highly regarded in his day, on the occasion of his 80th birthday a parade was given in his honour that was the largest and most magnificent parade in the history of France. Laid to rest in the Panthéon, he shares a crypt with luminaries Alexandre Dumas and Emile Zola. You can visit the Maison de Victor Hugo tuesday through sunday from 10am until 6pm free of charge. Closed mondays and holidays. Victor Hugo, Renassaince man!

Fabulous Fountains

There are many delightful surprises to be found in Paris. Hidden courtyards bursting with flowers, sculpture in unexpected locations, and beautiful fountains that cool down a hot summer afternoon. The sound of rushing water is soothing to the soul, and combined with architectural design and artistic sensibilité, beauty is born. From the twin Fontaine des Fleuves (Fountain of the Rivers) at the Place du Concorde to the hidden Fontaine de Léda at the Jardin du Luxembourg, these magnificent pieces of art are rich in history, each with a story to tell. The Fontaine de Léda, commonly known as "The Hidden Fountain" was originally built in 1630, commissioned by Marie de Medici, wife of Henri IV, and was installed at the family palace on rue Vaugirard. Two and a half centuries later, in disrepair, it was saved and restored by architect and sculptor Gabriel Davioud, moved to it's current home at the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg and attached to the backside of the Fontaine de Medici (my fave) With it's reflecting pool, swooping topiary ivy, and magnificent sculpture of Polyphemus suprising lovers Acis and Galatea, it is not to be missed. But don't forget to walk around to the backside facing the street and visit the "Léda", which is easily dwarfed by the splendour of her big sister! Whilst visiting the busy and vibrant Quartier Latin with it's many shops, landmarks, and bustling sidewalks full of activity, you will happen upon the stunning Fontaine St. Michel. Designed by Gabriel Davioud who began submitting plans for approval by city administrators in 1855, it had it's share of controversy. Monsieur Davioud wanted it's focal point to symbolize Peace, others called for a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte. The popularity of the latter being in question however, finally the plans for a sculpture of the Archangel Michael wrestling with the devil was approved, and the fountain was inaugurated on August 15, 1860. No fewer than nine sculptors worked on the iconography, and it is unique in that it boasts of a mixed media of red marble from Languedoc, green marble and blue stone from quarries in Soignies, yellow stone from Saint-Yllie, as well as bronze. Threatened by a mob in 1870 after the capture of Louis Napoleon by the Germans, it survives today as the centerpiece of the Place du St. Michel. The elegant Fontaine du Palmier (Fountain of Victory) located at the Place du Chatelet was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate vicories in battle and to provide free drinking water to the residents of Paris. The graceful bronze figure of Victory brandishing laurels is perched atop a high column that can be seen from blocks away. The basin (again designed by G. Davioud) is surrounded by four sphinx, sculpted by artist Henri-Alfred Jacquemart. Louis-Simon Boizot is credited with the beautiful image of Victory, this is the way the french do watercoolers! I must confess to having a secret fantasy of nude fountain frolicking, especially at the Place du Concorde, imagining artistic photographs in black and white capturing the whole affair on exhibition at the Pompidou......but my dreams usually end in a mélange of uniformed officers (who are not amused), a stubbed big toe, and ultimate deportation. I guess I'll stick to frolicking in the hot tub!

Saturday in the Park

The lifestyle in any big city involves negotiating crowded sidewalks, dodging frenetic taxi drivers, and being jostled on and off the metro, all the while taking care to avoid pickpockets, motorscooters, and gawking tourists. Concrete, asphalt, and skyscrapers assault the eye, and one returns home to a cramped apartment to have one's senses assaulted by the neighbors crying baby and funky food smells. As one living in a city such as Paris is deprived of a backyard to cultivate and take the sun, or a place for the children to expend endless amounts of energy, a visit to the neighborhood park is an intregal part of the day. Every afternoon around 4:00, nannies and parents lucky enough to have the time at home push strollers of cherubic toddlers toward the nearest park and relax on a bench whilst the children play. Old men can be found playing pétanque, the family dog has a walk, lovers meet to kiss and coo. But the weekend is when the parks really come alive! If the weather is nice, this is where one takes the sun and enjoys a good book. Boys play futbol, those more motivated types jog around the perimeter, and ice cream vendors rake in the dough. Pigeons trawl for leftover baguettes, ducks swim leisurely in the ponds, and families enjoy quality time together, foregoing an afternoon in front of the television (as Americans are wont to do). The entertainment here is provided by amateur musicians, pretty girls, and spontaneous moments.....a child chases a bird, two dogs meet for the first time and size each other up, a boy chases a soccer ball gone astray. This is the quality of life that is Parisian culture, and whether you live in the city or the countryside, it is a habit that anyone, anywhere can benefit from!

chicago - saturday in the park LIVE

April in Paris

Masses of tulips everywhere, parisians sunning in the park, magpies singing and frisky frenchmen, this is April in Paris! The winter months are long and brutal here. The sky is gray for weeks on end, the wind is bitter and will cut you like a knife, the suicide rate rises, and just as one is contemplating the latter, voila! C'est printemps! Spring arrives bringing with her warm sun, balmy breezes, and the promise of romance. The citizenry of Paris, normally grumpy, begin planning their summer holidays and attempt to jumpstart their tans on tiny apartment terraces and in the park. Tourists crowd into the city, teenagers on spring break and retirees clutching maps and clogging the metro in their confusion. Young hip girls put their shorts away (shorts are worn here only when the temperature drops below freezing, with tights for - warmth?) and boots are traded for ballet flats and Converse style tennis shoes in every colour of the rainbow. The department stores are full of women shopping for a new maillot, which in turn boosts the sales of anti-cellulite products of every variety. Windowboxes are replanted with brightly coloured flowers, adding to the ambience of the city, and PDA abounds! (did I mention frenchmen become extremely frisky?) But don't blink, or you'll miss the tulips, which last only a few weeks before disappearing.....it's April in Paris!