Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Fabulous Fountains


There are many delightful surprises to be found in Paris. Hidden courtyards bursting with flowers, sculpture in unexpected locations, and beautiful fountains that cool down a hot summer afternoon. The sound of rushing water is soothing to the soul, and combined with architectural design and artistic sensibilité, beauty is born. From the twin Fontaine des Fleuves (Fountain of the Rivers) at the Place du Concorde to the hidden Fontaine de Léda at the Jardin du Luxembourg, these magnificent pieces of art are rich in history, each with a story to tell. The Fontaine de Léda, commonly known as "The Hidden Fountain" was originally built in 1630, commissioned by Marie de Medici, wife of Henri IV, and was installed at the family palace on rue Vaugirard. Two and a half centuries later, in disrepair, it was saved and restored by architect and sculptor Gabriel Davioud, moved to it's current home at the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg and attached to the backside of the Fontaine de Medici (my fave) With it's reflecting pool, swooping topiary ivy, and magnificent sculpture of Polyphemus suprising lovers Acis and Galatea, it is not to be missed. But don't forget to walk around to the backside facing the street and visit the "Léda", which is easily dwarfed by the splendour of her big sister! Whilst visiting the busy and vibrant Quartier Latin with it's many shops, landmarks, and bustling sidewalks full of activity, you will happen upon the stunning Fontaine St. Michel. Designed by Gabriel Davioud who began submitting plans for approval by city administrators in 1855, it had it's share of controversy. Monsieur Davioud wanted it's focal point to symbolize Peace, others called for a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte. The popularity of the latter being in question however, finally the plans for a sculpture of the Archangel Michael wrestling with the devil was approved, and the fountain was inaugurated on August 15, 1860. No fewer than nine sculptors worked on the iconography, and it is unique in that it boasts of a mixed media of red marble from Languedoc, green marble and blue stone from quarries in Soignies, yellow stone from Saint-Yllie, as well as bronze. Threatened by a mob in 1870 after the capture of Louis Napoleon by the Germans, it survives today as the centerpiece of the Place du St. Michel. The elegant Fontaine du Palmier (Fountain of Victory) located at the Place du Chatelet was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate vicories in battle and to provide free drinking water to the residents of Paris. The graceful bronze figure of Victory brandishing laurels is perched atop a high column that can be seen from blocks away. The basin (again designed by G. Davioud) is surrounded by four sphinx, sculpted by artist Henri-Alfred Jacquemart. Louis-Simon Boizot is credited with the beautiful image of Victory, this is the way the french do watercoolers! I must confess to having a secret fantasy of nude fountain frolicking, especially at the Place du Concorde, imagining artistic photographs in black and white capturing the whole affair on exhibition at the Pompidou......but my dreams usually end in a mélange of uniformed officers (who are not amused), a stubbed big toe, and ultimate deportation. I guess I'll stick to frolicking in the hot tub!

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