I am completely seduced, gushing to the point of redundancy, stick a fork in me I'm done over the Défilé Haute Couture Spring/Summer Collection for 2011. The very beautiful and adorable Alexis Mabille obviously loves women; he drapes the female form perfectly, the result of his alchemy a mélange of Grecian goddess and femme fatale. French designers are prone to thinking that the application of a bow equals haute couture, but here this potential fashion disaster is used judiciously to evoke the flavour of Parisian chic. This is the ultimate glam collection; cohesive to the max, headturning, wearable, timeless! I want every single piece, (with the exception of one or two; the short white dress with the cape appeared a little bulky in the bodice) the only other thing I would ever need in my wardrobe would be a Chanel suit and an Hérmes leather bustier! Fashion must have for Printemps 2011: Chandelier earrings, a pretty white dress, a white handbag.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Paris Travel Advisory: "Le Tour d'Elégance"
I like to describe Paris as a beautiful woman who seduces you, makes you spend all your money on her, then laughs in your face; "Did you think I cared about you? Ha! You stupid leetle man". With a rich history that dates back to ancient Rome she is old and yet always new; road worn and yet fresh, predictable and always exciting. Possessing more tricks than a hooker, she entices one with promises of unearthly delights that never fully materialize (such as the 10 euro three course meal that is inedible and always ends up costing twice as much in the end). I have personally wasted a small fortune blinded by her charms before I figured out how she operates, and in the coming weeks I will be exposing her; sharing with you how to play the player! From where (and where not) to eat, the best of what's free, tips for understanding the french personality, and ways to maximize your vacation dollar, look to your Paris Travel Advisory @ www.bonbondeparis.blogspot.com. Today we will begin with a walking tour I like to call "Le Tour d'Elegance". Chock full of eye candy, history and art blend magically; the "old and the new". We begin at my favorite spot in Paris, the Place de Concorde. I have a friend who can only navigate her way through Paris if she begins at the Place de Concorde. Otherwise she is lost! So every journey in her car begins here. In honour of her adorable quirkiness we take the metro ligne 1, 8, ou 12 to Concorde. Sortie Place de Concorde/Jardin des Tuileries. This is the heart and soul of Paris - fountains grace the spot formerly occupied by le guillotine; Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI were executed here, as well as some 17,000 others during the Reign of Terror. Today it is a bustling center of activity and joy as one gazes down the Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe. It's all here in one 360° turn. Le Tour d'Eiffel, Assembly Nationale, Les Invalides, Les Tuileries, Le Louvre, Hotel Crillon, The American Embassy. After a stroll through the Tuileries, (a must do) exit the front gate facing the Champs Elysées and head toward Rue Royale, which is at "2:00". Just past the Automobile Club of France is the elegant and chic Hotel Crillon, the preferred hotel of Nancy Reagan, Mick Jaggar, and P Diddy. You are welcome to peruse the salons, jardin, and bar at your leisure and get a little taste of how the rich and famous roll! Heading back to Rue Royale toward L'Eglise Madeleine it is time for window shopping like the "Real Housewives of Beverly Hills". We are heading toward the Rodeo Drive of Paris; the Rue St. Honoré. It is a pleasure to take in the window design at Cristolphe and Maxim's, and this is just the beginning! Gucci, Hermés, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, are à gauche, Cavalli, Jimmy Choo, Galliano, Longchamps à droite. I recommend leaving your credit card locked safely away in your room, the tentations are too great on the Rue St. Honoré. Soon we arrive at the Place Vendome, home to Dior, Boucheron, the Ministry of Justice, and the Ritz Hotel. Be sure to stop in at the Ritz and peruse the ground floor. Don't be timid, work your best catwalk attitude and take in the sumptious surroundings like the diva you are! (Splurging for a coctail here will cost you dearly at 30 euro each). When you can bear to tear yourself away, smile at the doorman and head left toward the Rue des Capucines. Another left on the rue D.C. and you have a decision to make; a quick left for a short pitstop at the famous Maison du Chocolat, or a right turn on Boulevard des Capucines toward the Opéra Garnier. I personally recommend the former, as one requires a boost of the most decadent chocolat chaud on the face of the earth after the Ritz and before the Garnier. This little cup of liquid heaven is worth the splurge at 7 euro 50, and on a chocolate buzz you head left out the porte toward the Palais Garnier; Paris' most famous Opera House. If the weather is fine you can live like a real parisian and take your picnic lunch on the steps, and watch the world go by on one of the city's most hectic "rond points". Don't forget to kiss your sweetheart! Here you are presented with another option; to tour the opera house @ 11 euro per person, something I would place high on the list of "must sees". Commissioned by Napoleon as an homage to the Arts; her marble staircases echo with the ghosts of high society on a night out, the massive chandelier evokes memories of the "Phantome", and her hallways smell inexplicably of urine. The grand salon defies description, it is to be seen to be believed (you will be glad to have splurged on the chocolate)! Sortie left to our final stop on "Le Tour d'Elégance"; Galeries Lafayette. Another potential for fiscal irresponsibility and yet another reason to leave your credit card locked safely away is Paris' most seductive asset; a ginourmous department store with a shoe department the size of a city block. The stained glass rotunda is famous as it is beautiful, tempting those who dare to enter this dangerous lair upward - upward toward the designer floor and certain bankruptcy! The exchange rate obliges you to add at least 30% to your purchases (not to mention TVA), better to find the terrace and a view of Paris that is grand. The best things in life are free; to be with your loved ones strolling the streets of Paris, taking in the view of the City of Lights together, sharing a moment of discovery. With the options: 20 euro per person for the afternoon. Without touring the Opera Garnier or the hot chocolate: 0. The experience: priceless!
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Friday, January 21, 2011
Your Friday French Fashion Report: Dolce and Gabbana Spring/Summer Collection 2011
To quote stylist to the stars Rachel Zoe; "I die!" The fresh, white collection from D&G for Spring/Summer 2011 is a gift from heaven after a long winter shrouded in black - the official color of Paris street wear. With the exception of a foray into bloomers, (the Italian answer to this seasons "super short" which should never be worn by anyone over the age of 2) there are so many wearable pieces that deserve to be called collectible. Cut work and delicate laces add a sweetness to the classic, elegant lines of a simple pencil dress, and undergarments reminiscent of Granny panties seem to work under a sheer flowing white skirt! Reminiscent of the maillot de bain of the 1950's and '60's; shorts, bras and crop tops are featured, layered with little jackets and and accessorized with a bit of bling. Oversized charm bracelets, a Grace Kelly bag in white, and a pair of impossibly high platform stilletos and you are ready to stroll La Croissette! The little white dress is the new black; if it is the only thing you add to your wardrobe this season do it!
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Travel Advisory: The Paris Museum Pass
The possibilities are endless during your visit in Paris. I vacationed here no fewer than 8 times before I made the leap, and after four years living here I still haven't seen it all. In fact, I feel as if I could live here another 25 and still find her new and exciting! I have learned some valuable lessons however, and I would like to share them with you in an attempt to maximize your Parisian experience. The Paris Museum Pass is a highly touted product promoted by the government as well as professionals in the tourism industry. Available for sale at Paris museums, travel agents, and often travel websites, (sometimes including a markup) it is a seductive option; entry to all museums in Paris! The Paris museum pass is available for 2 days, 4 days, and 6 days, at 35, 50, and 65 euros respectively, and must be used consecutively. It's true, I love me a museum! I rarely miss "free museum day" (the first Sunday of every month), and I attend exhibitions regularly. I would say I visit a museum an average of once a week. But even I can't do 6 consecutive days! I wondered if the museum pass was practical. I decided to crunch some numbers and think like a tourist who has one week in Paris. Let's begin with the 2 day pass @ 35 euros. Of course when you are in Paris you must visit Le Louvre! This is an all day project - after experiencing La Jaconde (the Mona Lisa), Venus de Milo, Napoleon's Apartments, and the ancient Trésors du Egypte, one's senses are sated. Another museum that day would just be overkill. Tariff à Le Louvre: 10 euros. Another popular destination (and highly recommended) is the Musée d'Orsay. Chock full of the masters of Impressionism such as Renoir, Monet, and Degas, it should be savored slowly like a fine wine, and afterward a walk along the Seine is in order. Tariff à Musée d'Orsay: 8 euro. Purchased individually, the total: 18 euros. Savings: 17 euros! Across the river near is L'Orangerie, a lovely little museum at the front end of Le Tuileries. A special "combo" tariff for the d'Orsay and L'Orangerie: 13 euros. (You have 4 days to visit both) The total for the three museums would be 23 euros. Savings: 12 euros! Perhaps Versailles is on your agenda. To enjoy this magnificent Chateau, the gardens, Marie Antoinette's quaint and peaceful farm, and the Trianon is yet another full day. Tariff à Chateau de Versailles: 18 euros. If you went to the Louvre one day and Versailles the next, tickets purchased individually would cost 28 euros. Savings: 7 euro! I did arrive at one combination where the traveler breaks even with the museum pass. A 4 day pass is available at 50 euros. If one visits the Louvre, the d'Orsay and L'Orangerie, Versailles, and Les Invalides (Napoleon's tomb and war museum) consecutively, it would cost the same 50 euros as if you purchased the tickets individually. Squeeze in the Rodin (across the street from Invalides) and go to the top of the Arch de Triomphe and you would be ahead of the game. I did not find any 6 day combinations that were cost effective for any traveler not high on crystal meth. Of course, travel agents will sell you on the luxury of advancing to the front of the queue with your pass; but beware! The longest queues at any museum is for security, which cannot be avoided. And tickets can be purchased in advance from the website of any Paris museum. The key is to assess your priorities during the planning stages of your trip. How many museums can you handle? What do you want to spend your precious time doing? Did you know there are approximately 20 museums free at all times such as Le Musée d'Art Moderne de le Ville de Paris, Le Petit Palais, and the Maison de Victor Hugo? It is possible to enjoy many great collections and fine museums without spending a dime. I was horrified to discover (as I researched this article) a website that not only up charged the price of the museum pass, but included in the list of possibilities museums that were always free to the public! So do your homework. Remember; all museums are free the first Sunday of every month, nearly all are closed on Mondays, and you can purchase tickets in advance online. If you have any questions regarding your visit in Paris feel free to contact me at: bonbondeparis@gmail.com
Monday, January 17, 2011
"Le Trou de Cul du Monde"
I was invited to the country for a weekend of food, wine, and good conversation by ultimate hosts Famille Goulier. Their warm and charming home is located in the small village of Chateaurenard, ("Fox Castle") about a ninety minute drive from Paris. Madame hooked me up with a ride from a fun and lively couple; Fréderique, and her "toy boy" Didier. As we prepared for departure, Didier turned to me and winked "We have a saying in France; we are going to the "trou de cul du monde". Do you know what that is? It is the asshole of the world!" We laughed, "It's true, it is the middle of nowhere. Do you have a saying like this in America?" he queried. "Yes, we say "bumfuck", I replied. "Ah yes, bumfuck. It is the asshole!" (And it's true, the french are all about the asshole.) It is nice to get out of the city and enjoy the blankets of green farmland that is common outside the Ile de France. The sun appeared for the first time in weeks, and the sky was a bright blue. Fréderique and Didier were intelligent and funny; with biting wit and candor we discussed current events and got acquainted. As we wound our way through farmland, Didier said, "You see, we are in bumfuck!" We climbed a hill toward ancient ramparts, a Gothic church stood guard over the ville at the pinnacle. A quick right led us through main street, the Hotel de Ville (City Hall) and a brasserie à droit, a little church and a boulangerie à gauche. Two doors from the bakery was chéz Goulier. Madame welcomed us into a relaxed and homey atmosphere, a happy home the Goulier's had rennovated from what was once the village poste. I was fascinated to learn part of the structure dated back to the 1600's, (as evidenced by bricks that formed a wall outside the kitchen). Champagne was offered, (it was barely noon) and we chatted around the fire while Madame set the table for lunch. It was traditional french country fare; dried sausage and paté, bread, salad and the infamous stinky cheese platter. In french utopia, pasteurization would never occur! Fréderique related a hilarious story of living in Australia, where unpasteurized cheese was illegal. Lamenting this fact to friends, she was given a phone number to a shop. Up front; a dry cleaner. In back, illegal cheese. Suspicious, the shopkeeper refused her, but her friend had another connection. Two hours away! Like a drug addict jonesing for a fix Fréderique convinced him to drive her, and she got her black market cheese - alive and still growing! After three bottles of wine and half a kilo of gourmet chocolate Madame, Fréderique, and Didier enjoyed a catnap, while I enjoyed a tour of Chateaurenard guided by my host Gilles. A filbert farmer by trade Gilles is proud of his orchard, and after a pleasant walk up the hill to the ramparts, an impromptu mini concert by pipe organ in the Gothic church, ("He plays just for fun" Gilles explained) and a pass by a place said to have been visited by Joan of Arc, we drove a short kilometer to his farm and strolled through the grove of hazelnut trees. Leafless but just beginning to sprout little red buds, each one a future nut! We saw a hare, and a small deer bounded away, frightened by the vibration of our footsteps. "They are not afraid when I am in the tractor" said Gilles, "they just stand and look at me. But they run from me if I am on foot". Gilles is a one man operation; planting, trimming, harvesting, and processing his orchard with a love for his profession that is rarely seen. Located on property purchased by his parents many years ago, Gilles showed me their family home, and the home of his grandmother who lived to be in her 90's. As the sun set he drove us a short distance to the neighboring village of Chateaujean, where a single wall cut a Gothic silhouette into the sunset, ruins of a centuries old abbey that was dismantled to build anew. My host made sure to drive us through the creek that cut through the small road winding through Chateaujean, apparantly the source of all the fun that exists in that neck of the woods! It was a lovely tour, and when we returned home there was more champagne, dried sausage, and a delicious berry cobbler in the oven. We laughed, we gorged, and we had a great time. Fréderique and I dozed in the car as we drove back to Paris on a quiet Sunday afternoon, careful to arrive before the hoardes of likeminded parisians jammed the autoroute back to reality. Thanks to Nicole and Gilles; the hosts with the mosts!
Labels:
bumfuck,
Chateaujean,
Chateaurenard,
country french,
filberts,
hazelnuts
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Friday, January 14, 2011
Your Friday French Fashion Report: Pierre Cardin Spring Summer Collection for 2011
With all due respect to Monsieur Cardin, I must admit to having mixed feelings about his Spring Summer Collection for 2011. All over the board, it begins with interestingly enough, with the classic Cardin silhouette reminiscent of timeless 60's chic and Flash Gordon. You will find the always relevant A-line dress in every collection Cardin has produced in the last 50 years, a must have in every wardrobe. Fun and edgy, it takes a special kind of guy to rock the menswear, but hey Shatner did it as Captain Kirk! Unfortunately the collection takes a downturn in Part 3; I have always been a firm believer that to slap a bow on a simple classic sheath is not new, or modern, or fashionable in any way - au contraire! I personally would have left this entire grouping on the cutting room floor. Maestro must have been exhausted by the time we reach the finale, his wedding collection is an unmitigated disaster saved only by the tabletop edition, which is eyecatching as well as practical - you can get married and serve your wedding cake with the same dress! Loved the hats and the geometric handbags, and the built in hula hoops were whimsical and a stroke of genius. It's my new "must have" !
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
The Man in the Iron Mask
One of the most infamous stories in French history is the mystery of the "Man in the Iron Mask". Part truth, mostly fiction, and highly romanticized, this yarn has been spun throughout the centuries like the quintessential game of "telephone"; beginning with a fact that becomes riddled with falsehoods as it is passed from mouth to ear. It's a good yarn, who amongst us hasn't thrilled to the swashbuckling adventures of Alexandre Dumas' "Les Trois Mousquetaires" , chivalrous members of the King's Guard who went rogue and saved France from her despotic monarchy! This was all I knew on the subject until a recent rendezvous with Madame M. Enjoying vacation photographs over a cup of tea and a delicious tarte, she pointed out the island prison of the legendary Masque de Fer. "It is a true story?" I exclaimed, and Madame M confirmed that in fact, it was. "Yes, ee woz eempreezoned by Loo-ee Cat-orz" she explained, "but nobody knows oo ee woz". This got my ever curious mind spinning - who could he have been, and what is a logical motive? Inquiring minds want to know! It seemed logical that he could have been some relation to the King who could possibly usurp the throne - or was it? Wouldn't Louis have simply ordered the "permanent disappearance" of such a threat as this? I decided to use the internet to search for an answer. The following is a short documentary I discovered on YouTube that addresses the myths, and follows the trail of evidence back in time to reveal the true identity of the Man in the Iron Mask. I hope you enjoy it.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
A View from A Broad
As Americans ponder the latest shocking shooting spree in Arizona, they are joined by the French who are always well informed as to world events. "How can this happen?" we ask ourselves, and each other. As Americans scramble for an answer, the focus is on how to deflect oncoming bullets as if we all can somehow be insulated from danger by living inside our own personal Pope mobiles. Every time this happens - and it is all too often - we hold candlelight vigils, media pundits opine, and the NRA digs it's heels in deeper. Two weeks later, life returns to normal until the next bloody massacre. As usual, the French have a slightly different take on the subject. They simply cannot understand why Americans continue to allow this to happen time and time again. You see, this sort of thing is virtually unheard of in France. Schoolchildren attend class without a thought being given to lockdowns and random attacks - they're too busy smoking and making out! In the french mind the solution is simple; Gun Control. Two words that strike fear and dread - not to mention anger - in the minds of U.S. citizens nationwide. Never having owned a firearm myself (the "Three Day Cooling Off Period" being designed for people like me), I have always felt that it generally isn't a good idea to have guns around the house. That being said, I understand the intent of the Second Amendment to the Constitution and why it was included by our founding Fathers. But in France, a country that existed under the stranglehold of tyranny for centuries, there are very strict controls on concealed weapons. The possession of a handgun is strictly forbidden, unless one is licensed as a police officer, security officer, or a member of the military. For the hunter, ownership of a shotgun is permitted with a license. The same goes for knives such as switchblades, as a concealed weapon they must be registered with the local prefecture (police). This makes perfect sense to every française I have ever met, and they always cite "Columbine" as an example. The end result is obvious in France; there are no schoolyard shootings, mall massacres, armed home invasions, or carjackings at gunpoint. That is not to say there is no violence or crime in France, of course there is! And it is true that I have seen reports of a shooting victim from time to time - in Paris and in the countryside. But it is extremely rare, and all the more shocking because of it. As for tyranny (which the NRA and militia groups love to hang onto), not since the American Revolution has this been an issue in America. True, we have come close with the likes of Nixon and Cheney, with their illegal wire taps and rendition programs, but not so close that an armed militia is necessary! Usually, an election is all that's needed - that and a free press. Ironically, the French - who actually did suffer under tyranny for centuries before achieving liberté - consider gun control to be civilized and intelligent, not oppressive and threatening. To quote my friend J.P., "The people are the government, and the government is the people!" Well said, mon ami. Perhaps if Americans adopted that mindset there would be less paranoia. Without paranoia, the need to stockpile firearms or attack government employees becomes nil. It's difficult to shoot up your high school when there aren't any guns in the house. And the worn out excuse "If you make owning a gun a crime, only criminals will have guns" just doesn't fly - just ask any frenchman!
Friday, January 7, 2011
Your Friday French Fashion Report: Givenchy Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear Collection
Part Austin Powers Retro, part Goth, at first reminiscent of the bad ass style of Jean-Paul Gaultier, designer Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy offers a collection for spring and summer that is edgy and eye catching while remaining wearable (if one is tall and thin of course!) Tisci's use of sheer flowing fabrics, geometric angles, and plenty of zippers makes interesting viewing from the runway or the sidewalk, and there are a couple of pantsuits that should be de rigeur for the well dressed enemy agent. The colour palette is a bit austere for spring, after a long winter in Paris (where black is the national colour) one is thirsty for something bright, but admittedly this collection would not translate in pink and lime green. Watch for the trickle down effect in mainstream pret-à-porter this year - I predict the zipper as ornamentation and sheer chiffon skirts over culottes!
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
The Medicis Code
From a modest beginning in 13th century Tuscany, to wealth, power, and influence, there is no escaping the impact of the Famille Medicis. Having amassed a great fortune in banking, the patriarch of this great clan solidified his position in society with the acquisition of Fine Art, the taste for which was passed down from generation to generation for over 400 years. Collectors and patrons of Fra Angelico, Raphael, Michel Ange, and Botticelli, the Medicis had exquisite taste and the money to feed it. A passion for ancient artifacts led Cosme de Medicis; Duc de Florence to purchase "L'Orator", a sculpture from 200 B.C. excavated from Roman ruins. He founded a school of Fine Arts where budding artists now famous flourished. His descendants Catherine and Marie married French kings Henry II and Henry IV respectevely, and the lineage of the fruit they bore included the likes of Louis XIV, Phillip of Spain, and Mary Stuart. The family boasted of two Popes, Clément VII, and Leon X, and a Cardinal; Leopold de Medicis. Catherine de Medicis was close friends with Nostradamas, astrology being the leading science of the day. When Gallileo was being sought by the Inquisition and under house arrest, he was protected by the Medicis and encouraged to continue his scientific studies. For this was a family of progressives; having a hand in the infancy of Opera, imagining geometric gardens adopted by the French, and establishing cabinets dedicated to medicine and physics. Important pieces from the Trésors de Medicis are currently on exhibition through January 31st at the Musée Maillol, 61 rue Grenelle, metro ligne 12 Rue du Bac. Open everyday from 10h30-19h and until 21h30 on Friday's. Tariff 11 euro and 5 euro for the audio guide is highly recommended. You will see sculpture by Michel Ange, painting by Botticelli, the aforementioned "L'Orator", and much much more! (Photos are strictly forbidden) To learn more about this intriguing family, just Google "Medicis"
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