Paris Travel Advisory: "Le Tour d'Elégance"

I like to describe Paris as a beautiful woman who seduces you, makes you spend all your money on her, then laughs in your face; "Did you think I cared about you? Ha! You stupid leetle man". With a rich history that dates back to ancient Rome she is old and yet always new; road worn and yet fresh, predictable and always exciting. Possessing more tricks than a hooker, she entices one with promises of unearthly delights that never fully materialize (such as the 10 euro three course meal that is inedible and always ends up costing twice as much in the end). I have personally wasted a small fortune blinded by her charms before I figured out how she operates, and in the coming weeks I will be exposing her; sharing with you how to play the player! From where (and where not) to eat, the best of what's free, tips for understanding the french personality, and ways to maximize your vacation dollar, look to your Paris Travel Advisory @ www.bonbondeparis.blogspot.com. Today we will begin with a walking tour I like to call "Le Tour d'Elegance". Chock full of eye candy, history and art blend magically; the "old and the new". We begin at my favorite spot in Paris, the Place de Concorde. I have a friend who can only navigate her way through Paris if she begins at the Place de Concorde. Otherwise she is lost! So every journey in her car begins here. In honour of her adorable quirkiness we take the metro ligne 1, 8, ou 12 to Concorde. Sortie Place de Concorde/Jardin des Tuileries. This is the heart and soul of Paris - fountains grace the spot formerly occupied by le guillotine; Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI were executed here, as well as some 17,000 others during the Reign of Terror. Today it is a bustling center of activity and joy as one gazes down the Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe. It's all here in one 360° turn. Le Tour d'Eiffel, Assembly Nationale, Les Invalides, Les Tuileries, Le Louvre, Hotel Crillon, The American Embassy. After a stroll through the Tuileries, (a must do) exit the front gate facing the Champs Elysées and head toward Rue Royale, which is at "2:00". Just past the Automobile Club of France is the elegant and chic Hotel Crillon, the preferred hotel of Nancy Reagan, Mick Jaggar, and P Diddy. You are welcome to peruse the salons, jardin, and bar at your leisure and get a little taste of how the rich and famous roll! Heading back to Rue Royale toward L'Eglise Madeleine it is time for window shopping like the "Real Housewives of Beverly Hills". We are heading toward the Rodeo Drive of Paris; the Rue St. Honoré. It is a pleasure to take in the window design at Cristolphe and Maxim's, and this is just the beginning! Gucci, Hermés, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, are à gauche, Cavalli, Jimmy Choo, Galliano, Longchamps à droite. I recommend leaving your credit card locked safely away in your room, the tentations are too great on the Rue St. Honoré. Soon we arrive at the Place Vendome, home to Dior, Boucheron, the Ministry of Justice, and the Ritz Hotel. Be sure to stop in at the Ritz and peruse the ground floor. Don't be timid, work your best catwalk attitude and take in the sumptious surroundings like the diva you are! (Splurging for a coctail here will cost you dearly at 30 euro each). When you can bear to tear yourself away, smile at the doorman and head left toward the Rue des Capucines. Another left on the rue D.C. and you have a decision to make; a quick left for a short pitstop at the famous Maison du Chocolat, or a right turn on Boulevard des Capucines toward the Opéra Garnier. I personally recommend the former, as one requires a boost of the most decadent chocolat chaud on the face of the earth after the Ritz and before the Garnier. This little cup of liquid heaven is worth the splurge at 7 euro 50, and on a chocolate buzz you head left out the porte toward the Palais Garnier; Paris' most famous Opera House. If the weather is fine you can live like a real parisian and take your picnic lunch on the steps, and watch the world go by on one of the city's most hectic "rond points". Don't forget to kiss your sweetheart! Here you are presented with another option; to tour the opera house @ 11 euro per person, something I would place high on the list of "must sees". Commissioned by Napoleon as an homage to the Arts; her marble staircases echo with the ghosts of high society on a night out, the massive chandelier evokes memories of the "Phantome", and her hallways smell inexplicably of urine. The grand salon defies description, it is to be seen to be believed (you will be glad to have splurged on the chocolate)! Sortie left to our final stop on "Le Tour d'Elégance"; Galeries Lafayette. Another potential for fiscal irresponsibility and yet another reason to leave your credit card locked safely away is Paris' most seductive asset; a ginourmous department store with a shoe department the size of a city block. The stained glass rotunda is famous as it is beautiful, tempting those who dare to enter this dangerous lair upward - upward toward the designer floor and certain bankruptcy! The exchange rate obliges you to add at least 30% to your purchases (not to mention TVA), better to find the terrace and a view of Paris that is grand. The best things in life are free; to be with your loved ones strolling the streets of Paris, taking in the view of the City of Lights together, sharing a moment of discovery. With the options: 20 euro per person for the afternoon. Without touring the Opera Garnier or the hot chocolate: 0. The experience: priceless!

Your Friday night French Ro-Com Part 5: "Mr. Low-key"

What could be more romantic than sitting on the steps of the Palais Garnier alongside teenagers, tourists, and pigeons (the latter trawling for snacks), on a beautiful sunday afternoon engaged in blatant PDA ? It's an experience - uniquely french - that everyone should have at least once a lifetime. I was vaguely aware of a middle aged couple from America smiling at us, he raising his camera to capture the quintessential parisian moment, and we gave him the money shot! Smiling into each others eyes, Low pulled me into a warm embrace, and I nestled into his shoulder. A toddler chased a trio of pigeons away from a half eaten cookie, and he knelt down and sampled it for himself before his mother (who was horrified) could head him off at the pass. We laughed as he cried during the vigorous decontamination of his tongue....life was good. "Are you hungry?" inquired my date. "I'm famished!" I exclaimed, "I think I ran out of gas about a half hour ago". "What do you feel like having for dinner?" Low asked, "Since you live here, I'll let you choose. Do you have a favorite restaurant?" (a whopping 10 bonus points!) "Oooh, I know just the place, Chéz Janou!" I suggested, "it's a bit of a zoo, in the sense that it is always very busy, but that's because the food is so good. But it's very unpretentious, and the wait staff is friendly. The moules gratinée is to die!" "Fabulous" said Low, "Where is it? Should we get a cab?" "We can take the metro right here, line 8 will take us to Bastille, et voila!" I offered. I am so accustomed to using public transportation, it's so easy (and above all cheap), I don't even give it a second thought. "No, I don't feel like taking the metro, we'll catch a taxi" he insisted. I didn't argue, and we walked hand in hand toward the nearest taxi stand to queue up and hope a few extra drivers were on duty - Sunday being one of those days it is next to impossible to find a cab. But when you have a hot date like Low, it's a pleasure to wait! Chéz Janou was crowded as usual when we arrived. (Note to self: enter their phone number into cell for reservations on the fly.) We had only 10 minutes to wait, and Low snagged the one remaining barstool and offered it up (5 points). Chéz Janou has inarguabley the best olives in the universe, and we munched contentedly on this perfect appetizer before being shown to our table. We shared the moules, a delicious spinach salad with goat cheese and grapefruit, (salade epinard avec pamplemousse et chévre), and for dessert a generous serving of their famous house mousse au chocolat. OMG! The waiter brings a giant bowl of chocolate heaven - big enough to swim in - offers you a sizeable platter and a huge spoon with which to take as much as you desire.....stick a fork in me - I'm done! Joking, I asked the waiter to just leave the bowl, and he did! Low laughed as the waiter walked away, playing along with my farce. "Are you going to eat all of that?" he grinned. "No, you're going to help" I said, and with a straight face, dished him up a teeny tiny portion. "Thanks, it's so good of you to share!" He took the plate I offered, and with his pinky scooped the mousse off the plate and into his mouth. "Hmmmm, delicious! Waiter, check please!" We laughed and I dove into the bowl, serving a generous portion for us to share as we chatted and took in the chaos that is Chéz Janou. It had been a great day, and I was looking forward to going to the theatre with him the next weekend. But the way he was looking into my eyes, I knew there was a decision looming before us - and it was all mine. Low was staying in a hotel at Place du Vosges, just two blocks away. I was either going to get on the metro after dinner, or not. Did I want to stay? Oh yes! I felt comfortable with Low, he was easy to talk to and funny - and adorable. But most of all, a gentleman. I faced the cunundrum every woman has; to play by the "rules" and wait (for date number six? marraige? a ring on it?) or succumb to the pleasures of the flesh and "cowgirl up"! Not helping matters was the mélange of boyish charm, Bordeaux, and a huge bowl of chocolate mousse. Add the fact that I am not looking for a husband, and you have devils brew! Oh la la. I knew deep down Low would have more respect for me if we waited, plus a little anticipation goes a long way......on the other hand I didn't want to leave him, I wanted to lie in his arms all night. We strolled slowly toward our final destination, not wanting the night to end. As we neared the moment when we must decide whether to zig toward Place du Vosges or zag toward the metro, my heart was pounding furiously. Did I a.) demurely kiss Low goodnight and get on the metro, b.) go with him to his hotel and ride him like the wild stallion he is, OR c.) this is way TMI - Too Much Information Find out next week on your Friday night French Ro-Com, right here at Bonbon de Paris!

Your Friday night French Ro-Com Part 4: "Mr. Low-key"

I awoke to a beautiful cloudless summer morning, and as I gazed out the window at the gold dome of Les Invalides gleaming in the sunlight I was still pondering what to wear on my first "official" date with Low. I knew he had a penchant for walking, so the most comfortable shoes possible were in order. Trouble is, the most comfortable shoes aren't often the cutest, in fact when one can accomplish being extremely comfortable and ultra chic at the same time it is a coup d'éclat - right girls? Plus, in Paris anything can happen weather wise. It can be bright and sunny one moment and before you know it, gale force winds are blowing rainclouds your way! Tropical style thunderstorms are not at all unusual in summer, so I had to be prepared for anything while remaining stylish and comfortable. Oh la la! I decided to phone him to see what he had in mind for the day before making my decision. "Good morning cherie, did you sleep well?" Low sounded cheerful and ready to take on the day. "Do you still want to meet for lunch?" he queried, "and maybe a little walk around town?" (I knew it! The scales were tipping toward jeans and tennies). "I'd like that" I purred, "where shall we meet?" As it happened he was staying near Bastille, not far from where we had our chance encounter the night before. "There is a great little café called "Les Pharohes" at the Place de Bastille" he suggested, "they have the best jambon et frommage sandwiches, my favorite! I love a cup of coffee with ham and cheese on a baguette, it's fabulous!" I happen to agree, (if you switch the coffee for a cola) so we firmed up our plans and rang off. Our conversation did little to resolve my wardrobe crisis however, but first things first - time for a shower and a "brazilian"! The Place de Bastille is quite large, with several sorties in the metro to choose from. The circumference around the Rond Point can take 10 minutes or more to traverse on foot, and I hoped the "meeney-miney-moe" method was on my side as I made my choice. I was already a little late. As luck would have it, "moe" came through and I found the café easily, and as I approached I could see by the smile on Low's face my tardiness was still within the realm of the adorable. He stood to greet me (5 bonus points) and we kissed cheek to cheek, the typical french hello. He was savvy, he had arrived early enough to choose the best table complete with an excellent view, just enough shade, as well as potted plants nearby acting as a buffer from the crowded sidewalk. The lunch crowd was just beginning to arrive as we ordered our sandwiches, and we chatted easily as we watched the "Bou-bo" work the pavement. Noon on Sunday at Bastille is a sight to behold. Young, muscular boys in skin tight tees and a 3 day beard swagger confidently like cocks in a hen house. Beautiful, tanned women in casual chic and the right sunglasses run their fingers through perfectly tousled hair as they smoke a cigarette and command complete attention. Forget poodles - Jack Russell terriers are the dog du jour! You can literally smell the money in the air as the scene plays out before your eyes. Fortified by lunch and a healthy dose of people watching we began a leisurely stroll through the streets of the Marais. One of the only neighborhoods whose shopkeepers open on Sunday, we explored a few galleries and boutiques, and shared a delicious piece of baklava from one of many traditional Jewish delicatessens. "I have to go to London tomorrow" Low announced, quite out of the blue. "I'm working on a project there." He explained he was directing a stage production, but true to his nature was very "low key" about it, and didn't offer too many details. "Do you like musicals?" he asked. Is a bear Catholic? Does the Pope... (well you know). "Of course! I love musicals!" "Would you like to go to the theatre next sunday?" he offered, "I thought I would come back to Paris for the weekend and take you to a matinée." It was a show I had always wanted to see, and I didn't hesitate to accept his invitation. Smiling, he gave me a little kiss and we continued our walk through Paris hand in hand, ending up at the Opera Garnier somehow. Low bought two bottles of cold water from an (unlicensed) street vendor and we sat on the steps of the opera house with the tourists and the teenagers to rest our feet and watch the world go by, in true french style! We kissed on the steps as huge double decker tour buses ambled by and amateur photographers on vacation captured our PDA for posterity. I felt like a real parisienne that day, being kissed openly by one's lover in Paris is a rite of passage! But our date wasn't over yet.....join me next week for your Friday night French Ro-Com and see what happened next!