"Stand right, walk left" is the rule of thumb on the escalators and moving walkways of Paris. Especially in a busy train station where people are frantically rushing to a rendezvous, or late for work. Fail to comply, and all bets are off! Of course les française will say "Pardon", but don't misinterpret the meaning. They are really saying, "Get the hell out of my way, you moron!" So when a young creeper blocked the fast lane on a trotteur to line 4 (as he tried to pick me up), you can imagine the vexation that ensued. If I'd had a rear view mirror, I would have seen a hundred faces fixed with what I like to call "the french furrow" - one giant collective uni-brow knit together in a frown. (Botox is definitely not the rage here.) Professing his love for me, he played his hand - a pair of deuces. "Piss off!" I said indelicately. I had already told him "No" with a capital N-O, and removed his hands from my body. Just then I saw an opening, and I maneuvered through it like a seasoned driver on the 405 at rush hour. Managing to stay one small step ahead of a tsunami of commuters, I never looked back. I assume Monsieur became lost in a sea of flotsam as the trotteur spat us out into an open hallway, where hundreds of people crisscrossed in an out of two separate tunnels to metro lines 4 and 12. This is no place for the timid, if you don't hold your ground and push your way through, you will be washed away like a grain of sand! Through the tunnel we snaked, first left, then right. A Rastafarian carved out a space in the corner at the left turn and sang reggae mon, his guitar plugged into the World's Cheapest Amplifier. I swear, you go upstairs just to go downstairs in the metro - it's like the infamous Winchester House! A young Gypsy woman sat smack dab on the steps halfway up, her eyes cast downward in false humility, her palm extended upward. Parisians have seen it all and the crowd pushed past, ignoring her. Finally I reached the quai, and jockeyed for position. During rush hour there would be no seats, and when you throw a perturbation into the mix it's difficult to even squeeze yourself onto the train. I glanced at the clock, I was right on schedule. "Bling" went my phone, signaling an incoming SMS. "The sheriff's a comin'!" (For those of you who know the movie "Blazing Saddles", you know what's next.) Before I could reply the train arrived, and I assessed the situation - sometimes it's best to wait it out if the cars are too crowded. Luck be a lady, the train arrived half full - I even secured a seat! Opening the phone, I composed my reply, "Hey, the sheriff is a ni-BONG!" I hit "send". I was a happy camper, how often do you meet a person who can quote your favorite movie? And he was tall, and he was handsome, and he was interesting. "Winning!" People stepped on and off the car as the train snaked it's way through Paris, stopping at St. Michel in the lively Quatier Latin, and heading toward Chatelet. There is a bistro I adore in Chatelet, and I wanted to share it with Mick. The train stopped at Cité, and a huge group of happy Italians boarded noisily - all talking at once. I had the sense they were one big family of sisters and cousins, nieces and nephews, grandchildren and married couples, all presided over by a formidable matriarch. Possessing a voice louder than all 15 of them put together, she commanded attention and respect as she herded her clan through the maze of Paris. Her ginormous breasts jiggled like Jello as she laughed heartily at something her grandson said, a cute teenager with a dazzling smile and a smart mouth. Her husband stood quietly in the background, content to observe his happy family together on vacation. He had willingly relinquished control to Mama decades ago, life being easier that way. The train screeched to a stop and I waded past Team Italia, offering a polite "Pardon". I located the proper sortie, (essential at a station as large as Chatelet) and ascended into the fresh air. Our designated location of rendezvous was the fountain at Place du Chatelet, and I spotted Mick standing beside one of the Sphinx, scanning the crowd for his date. I hung back for just a moment, drinking in this cool glass of water. There is something so sexy about a well groomed man, right girls? He brightened as I approached and moved toward me, taking me in his arms and kissing me tenderly on the lips. Damn he smelled good! Join me next week to find out if a) I swoon and fall backwards into the fountain, b) he smells so good I eat him for dinner, or c) his boss calls an emergency meeting before we get to the restaurant on Your Friday French Rom-Com!
Showing posts with label Quatier Latin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Quatier Latin. Show all posts
Friday, April 22, 2011
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Journées du Patrimoine 2010: Le Musée de Moyen Age
Smack dab in the middle of the Quartier Latin on the corner of Boulevard St. Germain and Boulevard St. Michel, a mere block away from The Gap and Mickey D's, is one of Paris' oldest monuments; the Musée de Moyen Age. It's strong foundation dating back to the 1st century, it stands defiantly amidst modern Paris like an old man who refuses to use a computer. Parisians rush by on foot, car, and motorbikes daily, going about their business with barely a glance - it's human nature to take things for granted. But when the sun sets and the strategically placed floodlights illuminate the Gallo-Roman ruins, oh la la! It's difficult to ignore the beauty of this ancient place. On my "to do" list for years, I decided today was the day. It is the weekend of the "Journées du Patrimoine", France's "Heritage Days". For two days a year, hundreds of monuments across France are open to the public free of charge, including the Senate, National Assembly, and the Elysées Palace; home to President Sarkozy. The latter expecting some 20,000 visitors, I chose to visit the old man on the corner. It is difficult to wrap my mind around anything 2,000 years old, but I was visiting a place that once served as a thermal bathhouse - before France was France and Rome ruled Europe. 700 years ago it was occupied by the Abbots of Cluny, as is witnessed by the Gothic chapel inside. It was enlarged and occupied by the Cluny Order until after the Revolution, when the property became nationalized and home to the private collections of three privileged men. Today, it houses a stunning collection of tapisserie (tapestry), religious artifacts, stained glass, and statuary; all 500 to 1,000 years old. C'est magnifique! You can visit the Musée de Moyen Age (Musée Cluny) Tuesday through Sunday from 9h15 until 17h45 at 6 Place Painlevé, metro ligne 10 to Cluny-La Sorbonne. Tariff is 8.50, with the exception of the first Sunday of every month, which is free museum day. You can read more about the Journées du Patrimoine by accessing my blog archive from October 2009 (on the sidebar).
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