Friday, February 11, 2011
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Getting Schooled French Style; The Re-gift
Intelligence, wit, and charm are qualities most highly valued in France. As a guest at the table of friends, one is expected to arrive with ones A game (and a bottle of wine). The French love to argue and will challenge even the most obvious point ad nauseum, in a sort of verbal game of table tennis. Prove yourself a formidable opponent, and you win respect. Have nothing of interest to say and you will not be invited back! The French love affair with intelligence extends to insults as well, the most cutting delivered with a strong aftertaste of saccharin. Of course one hears from time to time the sort of common insults that are internationally understood, (especially from the younger generation) but the well heeled Parisian prefers a more creative approach. An "Excusé moi, monsieur" can be delivered dripping with acid so strong one needs a haz-mat suit, and if you unwittingly commit a faux pas may the Saints protect you! Revenge being a delicacy in France much like escargot, champagne, and foie gras, savored like a fine Armagnac, and enjoyed as much as chocolat noir, there are many dramas unfolding in the city; plots carefully thought out for maximum effect. The following is a true story. The names have been changed to protect the culpable. Three colleagues (female) working for the same company befriend one another, lunch together, and ultimately decide to exchange birthday gifts. We will call them Marie-Claire, Geraldine, and Rhonda. The first year, Marie-Claire offered Rhonda a thoughtful gift of her favorite parfum - not an altogether cheap gift, as she prefers Chanel. A couple of months later, it was the anniversaire of Marie-Claire. Rhonda offered her a gift; a cheap child's plastic bracelet on elastic - an insult! The next year, Marie-Claire offered Rhonda a book written by her favorite author, but when it was Marie-Claire's birthday Rhonda offered nothing, and said nothing to acknowledge the day. Of course it hurt Marie-Claire's feelings, but she was discreet. The next year arrives, and goodhearted Marie-Claire offers Rhonda another thoughtful gift, only to be forgotten yet again on her birthday by Rhonda. Finally, in private she mentions this to Geraldine - she is vexed by Rhonda's lack of consideration! Geraldine concurs; she has also been insulted. Geraldine tells Marie-Claire about the gift she received from Rhonda the year before; a child's plastic bracelet on elastic. The identical cheap bracelet she had offered Marie-Claire! (They must have been 2 for 3 euros.) When they realized what Rhonda had done, Geraldine had revenge on her mind. It took a year to exact, but her patience paid off; for her birthday this year Rhonda received, wrapped in exquisite handpainted paper and tied with beautiful ribbon, a re-gifted child's plastic bracelet on elastic. SNAP!
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Free Museum Day: L'Orangerie
My favorite day of the month is the first Sunday, or as I like to call it; "Free Museum Day". I rarely miss the opportunity to take advantage of this forward thinking social program, whether I take my sketch pad to the Louvre or the Rodin, or choose to discover something new. Today I was in the mood to visit L'Orangerie and her collection of Impressionism and Modernism. A light and airy space, her foyer is walled in glass which affords a view onto the Tuileries, the Seine, and Le Tour d'Eiffel. Inside you will find a delicious selection of bonbons; beginning with giant tableaux by Claude Monet representing the four seasons at Giverny. It's a pleasure to sit and contemplate the brushstrokes, the beautiful colour palette, and the technique of this great master - if you can find a spot on the benches! Downstairs is the private collection of Jean Walter and Paul Guillome, patrons of the arts. Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, and Cezanne are well represented, as are André Derain and Chain Soutine. It's a collection one dreams of possessing! Modest and demure, L'Orangerie can be savored in a couple of hours from Tuesday-Sunday from 9h-18h. Closed Monday! Tariff 7.50 (plus 2.00 for special installations) Visit the L'Orangerie and the Musée d'Orsay (within 4 days) for 13 euro! Metro lignes 1,8, ou 12 to Concorde. The museum is located at the front right end of the Jardin des Tuileries.
Friday, February 4, 2011
Your Friday French Fashion Report: Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer Collection 2011
"Groovy, baby!" The spirit of Brigitte Bardot and swingin' 60's jet setters partying from London to L.A. is captured by Norwegian designer Peter Dundas for the iconic Italian House of Pucci for Spring/Summer 2011. Objective: Breath new life into a brand on the brink of irrelevancy, and bring it into the future! With respect to the Godfather - he dressed Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy after all - Dundas continues the tradition of colourful signature prints that are uniquely Pucci; in slim hiphugging trousers and flowing feminine gowns. Skin tight thigh high boots are a visually exciting juxtaposition to blue and white silk chiffon; if I had to choose only one new pair of shoes for the rest of my life, it would be those boots! Of course there is swimwear, (as Pucci began in the 1950's as a boutique on the island of Capri) and who among us can't use an uber soft jewel toned tunic in our wardrobe? Fresh, young, and hip, sensual, comfortable, and sexy are just a few words that come to my mind; how about you? Must have for Spring: slim trousers and the highest platform stilletos you can manage!
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Paris Travel Advisory: L'Gastronomique; L'Auberge Pyrenées Cevennes
"It is very important to choose carefully the restaurant!" Madame M declared. We had met at the Place du Chatelet to enjoy together dinner and a concert; me with an appetite, she armed with a well researched list of culinary possibilities. C'est vrai, dining out in Paris is fraught with hazards; from endless plates of mediocre food at the better establishments to the inedible at the dreaded tourist traps, one can spend a small fortune fueling up during ones visit to the City of Lights. I have learned the hard way, and since good food is a high priority for me I am dedicated to bringing you the best the city has to offer! I recently had the great pleasure of meeting a lovely woman from Texas, on a world tour and in Paris in search of the ultimate cassoulet. I understood completely, having experienced this ambrosia in a small Breton village years ago. "You need to start in Lyon" I advised, "in the country is where they make really good cassoulet!" "A friend recommended a place near République" Debra said, "Would you like to join me for dinner this weekend? My treat!" Not one to turn down a legitimate dinner invitation, I accepted. We arranged a rendezvous, she made the reservations, and I arrived at L'Auberge Pyrenées Cevennes with great anticipation of the gastronomic delights to follow. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, with a rustic country french ambience. The french staff are friendly, and happy to show you they speak English. Totally unpretentious, red and white checkered tablecloths invite relaxation; you are transported to Granny's house in the farmland that surrounds Lyon, the duck confit put up by Grand-mère herself from the game shot by Grand-père, homemade sausage and foie gras served simply on freshly tossed greens with crouton. There are a number of traditional Lyonnaise dishes to choose from, but we were on a mission. We started with the foie gras, moved on to the specialité de le maison; the cassoulet, and for dessert a classic profiteroles. Now I have had my share of foie gras since moving to Paris. It's as french as apple pie is American, but inconsistent in quality. I have had foie gras that tasted literally like cat food, and foie gras that was better than sex. The foie gras at L'Auberge PC is the latter - well almost! (I highly recommend it.) The cassoulet arrives in a huge cast iron skillet with as much theatre as the sizzling fajita platter does Stateside. And it's good; the beans are cooked to perfection, the duck confit added at just the right time to avoid a greasy broth. The traditional parfum of thyme, rosemary, and bay is delicate, as is the spice in the sausage. Your server will be happy to recommend the perfect wine to compliment your meal from a well stocked cellar, and the chocolate desserts are the perfect happy ending to a satisfying experience. You can expect to spend from 30-50 euro per person (depending upon your selection) which would include a starter, a plat (main course), dessert, and wine. One serving of cassoulet is big enough for two, and don't forget the secret code of the savvy parisian; order a "carafe d'eau"! (Water served tapped from artesian springs under the city, it is high quality and free. When you ask for water your server will always respond "Gaz ou still?" Unless you prefer to pay up to 7 euro for a bottle of Pellegrino or Evian, the carafe d'eau is the way to go.) Serving déjeuner from 12h-14h and dinner from 19h-22h30, reservations are recommended @ 01 43 57 33 78. Located at 106 rue de la Folie-Mericourt, metro lignes 3,5,8,9, ou 11 to République. Open Monday - Saturday. Closed August and some holidays. Visa, MC, CB, AMEX, and pets accepted. You'll love it!
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