Journées du patrimoine

Once every year for a weekend the french goverment opens its doors and offers viewing of places usually closed to the public such as the Palais Elysées, (where President Sarkozy lives and works) The National Assembly, and the Senate. This is called the "Journées du patrimoine". Last year I was walking around town one sunday and noticed people queueing up in unusual locations. Later that week I mentioned this phenomenon to a friend over coctails and she exclaimed, "Why that was the Journées du patrimoine of course!" Of course. Silly me! What is "patrimoine?" I asked. (I knew what a journey was) She explained it was like "heritage" or "inheritance", and that these places "belong to all the people of France as we pay the tax to maintain them." Makes sense to me. This year I decided to brave the crowds and I joined my friend Madeleine for a tour of the Palais-Royal and the Quai d'Orsay, which is the nickname for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. We met at the Palais-Royal, commissioned by the Cardinal de Richelieu in 1634. When he died, he bequeathed the palace to the royal family, and it was occupied thereafter by the Bourbons, represented by Louis XIV, the princes of the House of Orleans, and the Bonapartes respectively. Fire and the revolution took it's toll on the original palace and much has changed since the days of Richelieu, it is spectacular nonetheless and a national treasure. Today it is home to the Ministry of Culture and Communications, the Council of State, the Constitutional Council, and the Comédie Française. I have to say, if you have to work 9 to 5, this is the place to do it! The sumptious architecture of the 15th century overwhelms the eye, the detail in the mouldings, the beautiful carpets woven at the legendary Les Gobelins workshops and uber meters of fabric frame the doorways and windows in traditional french style. As we passed through the salons and offices of the Ministers of State, I was struck by the juxtaposition of traditional architecture, carpeting and draperies with modern art, desk lamps, and furnishings. It was eclecticism at it's best! We entered the office of the Minister of Cultural Affairs to discover a most shocking purple wall and fabulous piece of modern art that demanded ones undivided attention. At least I thought it was shocking, I mean who would imagine a purple wall in the middle of all these marble fireplaces, gilded wainscoat, and crystal chandeliers? Madeleine on the other hand was unfazed.....I must admit once I got used to the idea, and my brain processed the information it was pretty cool! The perfect setting for the Minister of Culture. We meandered through office after office, a dream library with a rolling ladder, and visited the General Assembly Room. The four oil paintings by Henri Martin painted in 1920 depicting Agriculture, Commerce, Industry, and Intellectual Work are stunning. After all this eye candy, we were in need of a break. We wandered into a small garden outside, found a bench in the shade, and watched people stroll by as we munched a ham and cheese sandwich and boosted our blood sugar with a coke. We began the second leg of our journée strolling down the fashionable Rue St. Honoré and windowshopping, then onto Rue Royal toward the Place du Concorde. This is my favorite place in all of Paris-bustling, steeped in history, a 360° turn full of famous monuments. It was a gorgeous fall sunday, sunny with a slight breeze, the light a golden yellow hue that is autumn, the sun warm but the air fresh. We crossed the Place du Concorde and headed west along the Seine toward the Assemblée Nationale and the Quai d'Orsay. We chose the Quai d'Orsay as the queue was much shorter. Known officially as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, it has welcomed many a foreign dignitary. Kings, Queens, Sultans, and Presidents have wined, dined, and forged diplomatic relations here. The Grand Salon is a celebration of red velvet and gold gilding, with the most magnificent tapestry imaginable, and there is a suite that was installed for Queen Victoria and her husband that boasts a mirrored salle de bain for her, and another with polished ebony walls for him. Wowza! There is a beautiful jardin behind the Ministry, and the offices in the rear of the building have lots of light and a great view. We finished the day relaxing in said garden, a luxury! Next year I would like to visit the Assemblée Nationale and the Comédie Française. What a blessing and a joy it is to have this opportunity. I thank my lucky stars every day!