Izis: Photographer Extraordinaire

It's true what they say, "The best things in life are free!" The proof was in the pudding today at the Hotel de Ville. Madame M proposed we visit the Izis exhibition, showing gratuite. I must confess, I had no knowledge of this artist before today, and was glad to expand my horizons. Born Izraelis Bidermanas, he came of age during the Nazi occupation of France, joined the Resistance, and was known to his comrades simply as "Izis". He had a lifelong love for the art of photography, and many of his most stirring portraits are of his fellow freedom fighters. A Humanist, Izis had an eye for capturing the emotion of the moment-pure, unposed, completely honest. After the war he worked as a staff photographer for Paris Match, the french equivilant to Life magazine, and captured the images of many luminaries including Colette and Chagal. But his most interesting work is spontaneous. He somehow captured the sad beauty of a homeless man sleeping in the street, the innocence of childhood, the sweet joy of a couple long married riding a merry-go-round. Not at all famous as his contemporary Robert Doiseneau, his body of work is nonetheless extraordinary, moving, and rich. Showing through the 29th of May, it is an exhibition not to be missed!

The Flood of 1910

My friend Madame M is in town this month and proposed an afternoon rendez-vous to take in an exhibition. There are many possibilities to choose from on any day in Paris, and as odd as it might seem we decided to visit the Bibliotheque Historique de la Ville de Paris to learn all about the Great Flood of Paris in January 1910. It was a fine spring afternoon, and we met in the Marais for a bite to eat before strolling to the bibliotheque. It was difficult to imagine the streets we were walking were once underwater, or that the Seine could rise to the point of destruction, but that is exactly what happens every hundred years or so in Paris. I like to say "it rains more here in one month than it does in San Diego in a year", and it's true! But usually it is more of a steady drizzle, with an occasional downpour lasting an hour or so. Nothing that would cause a flood. Mother Nature unleashed her wrath with a vengeance however a century ago, and from January 25th until the 15th of March (when the Seine returned to normal ), Paris became the Venice of France. First came the inondé, an innundation of rain that continued until the earth simply could not absorb any more. Heavy snowfall during the month preceding had begun to melt and the Seine was already rising above normal levels. Photographs document the river just a couple of meters below the top of the bridges that connect the right and left banks of Paris, and curious onlookers flocked to see the spectacle of a lifetime. But what was an afternoon lark soon became a nightmare as the river continued to rise, and soon the city had a full scale disaster on its hands. Contributing to the problem -ironically- was progress. During the century since the last flood (crue), the infrastructure of Paris had been modernized, much of it underground. Sewers were laid and tunnels snaked throughout the city, the metro was born! The streets were illuminated by gaslight, and telephone lines as well were all part of the city beneath a city-the catacombs and tunnels famous in Paris. Engineers of the day hadn't counted on a hundred year inondé however, and when the Seine spilled over and ran into the streets it flowed freely into the metro tunnels, and from there continued to flood the city from underground as well as above. The gas pipes burst and telephone lines were damaged, leaving the city in darkness and without a modern communications system. The storage cellars of the ancient market Les Halles were full of wine, grain, cheese, and water-much of the foodsource that supplied Paris was ruined. The little zoo at the Jardin des Plantes was evacuated - except for the giraffe. It was thought her height would keep her safe (but tragically she died of pneumonia). People entered and exited their second story apartments through the window by ladder, the bottom floor of the buildings being flooded. Mail was delivered by hand window to window, to be a facteur was to be an acrobat balancing on wooden planks that served as a sidewalk, on ladders that served as stairs. ("Neither rain, nor sleet...") The french came together, organizing clothing and food drives, and using their own unique brand of gallows humour to cope with matters completely out of their control. They suffered two more rounds of flooding in February - just when they were beginning to recover from the first - and it wasn't until mid March that the Seine receded and the rebuilding could begin. As I regarded the antique photographs of rowboats on the Grands Boulevards and the river cresting the bridges I thought - just for a moment - of how the weather has been so extreme this year, and that this could happen again.....we are after all, at the whim of Mother Nature!

We join Madame Genvilliers 3rd grade class on a field trip to the Bibliotheque Historique de la Ville du France in progress:

Visit the BHVP Expositions à la Galerie daily from 13h to 19h. Entrée rue Mahler, Metro ligne 1 St. Paul 4 euro adults, 2 euro seniors 60+, telephone 01 44 59 29 40

Rockin' the Vote, French Style!

On sunday the french will go to the polls to cast their votes in the "Regional Elections". It is akin to electing the govenor of a state, and the trains, neighborhood brasseries, and dinner parties are all abuzz with political debate. One never sees posters and signs supporting a particular candidate in a front yard here, rather the Hotel de Ville (City Hall) erects large metal posterboards in front of the gates with all parties represented. It is mind boggling how many political parties have sprung up here in France. I counted no fewer than 9 (and I know there are more), from the "UMP" (republican) to to the "NPA" (nouveau anticapitalist party) and everything in between. There are two ecology parties, a socialist party, and a democratic movement. Certain decsendants of the Bourbon monarchy have even created a royalist party, with the fleur de lis as their symbol (as if)! When I arrived three years ago - during the presidental elections - I was completely amazed to discover it was possible in France to vote for a member of the communist party, I had never even met a communist in my life! I imagined my grandfather rolling over in his grave as I studied the poster for the Front Gauche ("left front" or "PCF"- the french communist party), as well as certain friends back home that lean a little more toward the right having a nuclear meltdown, and I chuckled as I snapped photos to show everyone. But I seriously wanted to know more about what the "man on the street" was thinking, so I politely asked a few passers by if I could have their opinion. I began by asking what they considered to be the most pressing issue they wish their government would address. Without exception, their response was "the redistribution of wealth." When I asked them to elaborate, without exception, I was told that there is much money in the coffers from the high taxes they pay. From housing subsidies for minimum wage earners and senior citizens to ensuring their healthcare system stays afloat, I found it interesting that social programs were a high priority in the minds of the french. I asked if they wanted the government to lower their taxes, and again, without exception, they said "no". They just wanted the money to be spent wisely, redistributed to those who need it most, and for the government to keep their pension system strong. Imagine a place where tax cuts aren't a political talking point. Sometimes being in France is like being on another planet! With regards to the plethera of political parties, it seems that the UMP is the strongest at present. This is the party of President Nicolas Sarkozy. The local UMP candidate is the current frontrunner after the primary election held last sunday. The socialist party - represented in the presidential elections of 2007 by female candidate Ségolène Royale - is large but in as much disarray as the republican party is in America, and has splintered into many factions thereby weakening their ability to win a major election. I learned that the communist party represents about 3% of the voting public, so of course they have no power (though the former Minister of Sports is a card carrying member)! Recently, a former member of the "PCF" became disenchanted with the leadership of the movement and formed his own party - the "NPA" - basically a party of one. Apparantly he just wanted to be heard. I was told that only about 50% of eligible voters will go to the polls this sunday, with the other 50% suffering from apathy or disenchantment with the system. I will investigate further the latter and report my findings in a future entry. In conclusion, I think it is mutually beneficial to adopt the best of what each culture has to offer. As France has long considered the United States as a model (they were inspired by the American Revolution to rise up against their own oppressive monarchy), I think Americans can take the best of what is french; a higher sense of social justice. We are our brothers keeper. Afterword: The socialists have prevailed in the "regionals", prompting the press to declare pink the colour of the day. As it stands today, the President of France and much of his cabinet are "à droite" (to the right), whilst the leadership in the various regions of the country are decidedly "gauche" (left). This is possibly an electoral backlash to the policies of Sarkozy, who has been slashing social programs and cutting jobs in civil service.

Little Gems: Henri Willig Dutch cheese shop

If the French know how to eat cheese, the Dutch know how to make it. When in the Nederlands it is imperative to take advantage of any opportunity to duck into a little cheese shop and sample a selection of the worlds finest frommage. I was in Oud Amsterdams Kaashuis - a maze of ancient narrow alleyways crammed with specialty shops and tourists just off Damrak -when a bright shiny object in the window caught my eye. A unique and beautiful pair of candlesticks, elegant in their simplicity, drew me inside what turned out to be a cheese shop! I was welcomed by the friendly and beautiful Marielle and I began to browse around. Light and airy, impeccably clean, and thoughtfully arranged, this little boutique has a unique selection of gift items reasonably priced, wines to compliment your choice of cheese, and delicious chocolates. Samples are offered generously and the knowledgeable staff are happy to school you on the finer points of milk solids. I don't know what it is about Dutch goats, but the goat cheese from Holland is like eating a slice of pure heaven! I settled on a small round of Gouda - a longtime favorite - took one more pass by the aforementioned candlesticks, and promised myself to return soon. (There's a little somethin'-somethin' I want to get for my sister's birthday...) The Henri Willig family Dutch farm cheese shop is located at Haringpakkerssteeg 10-18, Amsterdam, and also online at http://www.henriwillig.com/

Little Gems: Geels & Co.

Not far from Amsterdam Centraal Station at #67 Warmoesstraat, nestled in between the smoke shops and the sex shops is a haven of the clean life: Geels & Company; specializing in tea, coffee, and all things associated with the preparation, consumption, and storage of one of lifes Grand Plasirs. The bell attached to the creaky wooden door gently announces your arrival, and the first thing that hits you is the aroma. More heavenly than anything I have ever experienced, it is a mélange of cinnamon, almonds, buttery caramel and coffee beans. If only I could bottle that aroma and take it home.......I wish I had smellavision to share it with you! It is possible to find a gift for anyone you love at Geels, from a large selection of exotically blended and beautifully packaged teas to chocolates and caramels. Teapots, teacups, and the indispensable french presse, they have it all and the prices are suprisingly reasonable. I like to try a different tea every time I visit, with favorites being their "Advent" tea and the "Palette Rembrandt". Sweet and spicy, with just a hint of heat is their "Mango Chili" blend. Delish! You can find a limited but nice selection of products for sale online at http://www.geels.nl/ but if you are in Amsterdam be sure to visit in person.

Musée Gustave Moreau

Sunday was "free museum day" in Paris, and chere Madame V invited me to visit the charming Musée Gustave Moreau with her. The sun was bright and the wind biting cold as we walked the short two blocks from metro stop "Trinité d'Estienne d'Orves" to the former home and studio (atelier) of artist, collector, patron, and professor of art Gustave Moreau. V led me to a typical 19th century parisian dwelling edging Monmarte, and we entered the sunny foyer. We received a friendly greeting and our ticket "gratis" and proceeded up the stairs to the private apartments comprised of a study, dining room, bedroom and boudoir (salon). Small, and crammed with treasures collected over a cultured and privileged lifetime it served ones needs practically. The spectacular "grands ateliers" are the jewel in the crown of this museum however. Two floors of space, light and airy, with 25 foot ceilings and large windows, it must have been an artist's dream studio! Leading us from the first atelier to the next is the most beautiful spiral staircase I've ever seen, the "Escalier reliant les grands ateliers" designed by architect Albert Lafon in 1895. Today the ateliers are sheltered from the suns harmful rays by curtained windows and crammed full of the work of this very prolific artist. Regarded as a leader of the Symbolic movement, his art reflects a fascination for mythology and ancient folklore. Paintings in both oil and watercolour, sculpture (he was facsinated by, studied, and copied the work of Michaelangelo), and drawings are displayed creatively. V showed me a curtained wall, and upon drawing back the protective cloth opened the secret doors which contain books of drawings fastidiously catalogued. One can sit upon a little wooden stool and regard these interesting and complex works leisurely. Artists bring their sketchbooks for inspiration and to copy a great master, visitors wander about easily. There are guided notecards in several languages to enhance your experience, and a tiny giftshop in the foyer offering lovely mementos of your visit. (Merci Viviane ;-) Open daily, the Musée Gustave Moreau is located at 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld, metro ligne 12. Take sortie "Trinité d'Estiennes d'Orves" and turn right at the corner of the block. There are signs that clearly point the way. Of course, a café after your visit at the corner bistro is just the thing! To visit the museum website go to: http://www.musee-moreau.fr/