Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Le Marché aux Fleurs


It's April in Paris, the sun is shining, and the weather is fine. French men are frisky, and falling madly in love all over town. Tulips bloom in profusion, and the streets are filled with tourists in town on spring break. I am obsessed with my garden at present, planting primrose, dahlias, columbine and nasturtiums, and heavily engaged in the age old battle of man vs. escargot. "Ave yoo been to le marché aux fleurs?" Madame V inquired, "eet eez very bu-tee-fool!" We arranged a rendezvous, and after a delicious lunch at chéz V, we caught the bus and made our way to the l'Ile de Cité, the heart of ancient France. Back in medieval times, France was a tiny island where the Seine forked, and just a little beyond. For centuries Normandy was controlled by the English, Provence was her own, her fertile soil battled over by Rome, Spain, and England alike. It was the same to the north and the east as well, Europe was a mélange of feudal clans and monarchy's. It took centuries of bloody battles, carefully arranged marriages, and delicate diplomacy (not to mention bribes), before France expanded her territory to become as we recognize her today. So when you visit St. Chappelle, Notre Dame, and the Place Dauphin, you are standing in the original France! I was acutely aware of this as we approached the market, even as the buzz of modern life drowned out the whispers of ghosts from the past. Parisians eager to pimp their terraces with a profusion of bright colours peruse the market, comparing prices from vendor to vendor. Tourists flock to this famous marché to capture a Tweet-pic, and the proprietaire of each stall does their best to charm you into buying. I was in paradise, the hortensia's (hydrangeas) here are ginormous, and there are new hybrids available every year. There was wisteria blooming fragrant and violet, and great big begonias. One vendor specializes in cactus, which has become quite popular with Parisians! This is the last remaining open air flower market of it's kind in Paris, and the locals cherish it like they cherish St. Chappelle and unpasteurized cheese. Every Sunday a metamorphosis occurs, and flowers become birds at the equally famous Marché aux Oiseaux. A tradition in Paris since 1808, you can visit the Marché aux Fleurs from Monday - Saturday, 8h - 19:30, et aux Oiseaux every Sunday at a civilzed time. Metro ligne 4 to Cité.

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