A Week in Bretagne: Cancale

Packing a suitcase to the max for every possible weather condition, armed with a sack full of Ranger Cookies and an appetite for fruits de le mer, I folded myself into the back seat of a tiny Japanese car, and along with Madame V, Madame M, and a long haired chihuahua named "Brutus", trundled toward the region of Bretagne and the quaint little village of Cancale. Bretagne is known for her fresh seafood, fresh cream, and sel de mer (sea salt), and the quiet fishing villages that dot the jagged coastline have been home to le pecheur for many a century. Windblown and sauvage, the islands that jut out from the sea have witnessed many a shipwreck, from invading marauders to those who have salt water coarsing through their veins, and small altars dedicated to the marins lost at sea can be seen everywhere. Cancale is a petite gem, with a boardwalk one can traverse in a matter of moments, lined with cafés featuring fresh oysters, gift shops offering the usual, and a town pub where the locals meet daily to share a beer and a good debate. One block behind the waterfront are two rows of three storied stone houses, their shutters painted bright blue and green, geraniums spilling out of planters attached to the windowsills. Many of these homes are summer getaways, and some have been converted into a clé vacances (vacation rentals). The rest are occupied by native Cancalese, some in the family for generations! We chose a good time of year to visit - mid June, before the tourists descend en masse, bused in from the Nederlands, ferried in from England, and motoring in from Paris to spend July and August at the seaside. We arrived at low tide, and had a clear view of the oyster beds below. Oysters are to Cancale what Buffalo Bill is to Cody, Wyoming - that is, everything! Vendors sell their harvest everyday from little booths installed permanently at the foot of the pier, and you can have them shucked for you and eat them on the spot. It's just the thing after a promenade along the hillside, a nature trail that is civilized enough for the timid, yet peppered with enough variety to keep the avid hiker interested. Affording one stunning views of the ocean beyond, the famous Mont St. Michel can be seen on a clear day, her unmistakeable shape a beacon in the horizon. If you are very brave, you can have a dip in the Atlantic, but men beware of shrinkage! The water is so cold year round it will be three days before you see the boys. Centre Ville (downtown) is a 15 minute walk inland, it's main focus a Gothic style church with a decidedly nautical theme and an impressive pipe organ. The village boulangerie has a line outside the door each morning, and is naturally closed on Mondays - it was here that Madame V bought a death-by-chocolate cake to celebrate my birthday. Nobody but nobody makes gateaux like the french, with their rich chocolate and fresh cream from free range, happy cows. It's a laid back vacation destination, perfect if you like long walks near the beach, oysters on the half shell, and peace and quiet. (Off season, that is!) Next door is St. Malo, famous for her thermal waters and spa treatments. We shall visit her next!