Little Gems: Maison Auer

There is nothing I love more than a beautiful chocolatier who fabricates beautiful chocolates. It is a secret desire of mine to learn the craft of creating little boxes, rabbits and lambs, and giant sculptures in my favorite medium: Caocao! My last day in Nice, Madame M and I happened upon a gorgeous magasin, le "Maison Auer". Founded in 1820, family owned and operated, the Florentine decor catches the eye and draws one inside to discover a plethera of tasty treats. Chocolates crafted in house, candied fruits, a variety of honeys and confitures (jams and jellies), traditional cakes and nougat, even fruit liquers, the Maison Auer has it all! The perfect place for gift shopping, they have delicious ideas in every price range. Open tuesday through saturday 9-1:30 p.m. then again at 2:30-6 p.m. you can find them at 7 rue Saint François de Paule in beautiful downtown Nice, or visit their website at http://www.maison-auer.com/ C'est magnifique!

La Cote d'Azur: In the mountains

Nestled in the mountains above Nice are little gems; quaint villages established by the Romans centuries before Christ, beautiful chateaus, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean sea. As we wound our way up the sharp curving road, Madame M told me the story of the most expensive chateau in the world, located in these very hills. Inherited from her family, extremely private, gated, and protected by security cameras installed at every angle, Madame was approached by a nouveau-riche Russian gentleman who coveted the property. He made an offer of several millions of euro. Madame refused. He countered, offering more. Again, he was rebuked. Like an obssesed lover, he refused to give up, he had to have this chateau! Finally, he made an offer she could not refuse, 500 million euro! He paid the required deposit of 10%, (50 mill) and then the crisis hit. The world financial market bottomed out, and he was unable to complete the deal. He lost his prestigious dream home and his 50 million dollar deposit in one fell swoop. Ah the folly of the nouveau riche. Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a scenic viewpoint for a look at Cap Ferrat. The water was a deep blue, with patches of aquamarine, so clear we could see the red rocks below the surface. Beautiful yachts were anchored in the cove, this is obviously the place to be. Further up the mountain we pulled into a little public parking lot overlooking the principality of Monaco. We were in the charming village of La Turbie. Keeping watch from above, an ancient tower erected between 25-14 B.C. signified the presence of Roman rule over the territory. An archway beckoned us to enter and explore the mysterious little streets, a maze of dwellings built long ago and inhabited today by friendly neighbors. Peaceful, uber cute, and seemingly out of a storybook, I fell in love! Coming out the other end we discovered a beautiful church, l'Eglise Michel-Ange. Exquisitely painted, light and calm, the energy there inspired this agnostic to light a candle. After an afternoon of eye candy we had quite the appetite, and found a restaurant overlooking the bay, every bit as charming as the whole of La Turbie. I could have stayed forever, but alas! It was time to move on, back down the mountain, passing by homes one can only dream of owning-large and small. As the sun set on the sea we returned to Antibes, but my heart remains in La Turbie!

La Cote d'Azur: Nice

Everyone should visit Nice at least once during their lifetime. The light, the colours, and the ambiance are seductive, and one finds everything from ancient Roman ruins to the ultra modern "La Tete au Carré", an office building perched high atop a sculpted noggin. The picturesque harbor is edged with structures painted in the typical earthen hues of the region; mustard and terra cotta in varying shades from intense to pastel, accented with greens and blues. Open air markets in old town offer everything from dried lavender to fresh strawberries, olive oil and dried sausage. The mountain roads wind sharply, leading one up through terraced neighborhoods that offer stunning views of a sea shimmering in the hot sun. Swimmers cool off deeply tanned bodies barely covered by speedos and thongs whilst tourists wander the narrow streets of "Old Nice" shopping for souvenirs and snapping photos. The piazzas are crowded with locals as well as visitors, who stop for a drink at the cafés which surround the ever present fountain, this is where one gathers to gossip and share the news of the day. Small groups of male "Nicoise" gather around tiny tables in the shade to play cards, beautiful girls negotiate scooters through the crowd, homemakers hang their laundry out to dry from third level windows. Away from the hustle and bustle of old town one discovers the ruins of Roman bathhouses, arenas, and the first Catholic church in Nice, dating back to the time of Christ. Open to the public, it is possible to stroll through the crumbling foundations of history all the while marveling at its modern day existence. It is a fairytale city, rich in culture with many stories to tell. I was sorry to depart, but there was more to see of the Cote d'Azur. Next stop: Cannes!

La Cote d'Azur: Antibes

I took a trip to heaven last week on the shores of the Mediterranean sea in the south of France. Honored to be invited by a friend, blessed with beautiful weather and arriving just before seasonal visitors crowd every spare inch of beach, I was fortunate to have a knowledgeable guide to the area. First stop: The very beautiful and very chic Antibes. Winding roads lead around the sea offering tiny private coves, the water clear and aquamarine lapping the rocky shoreline. Parasol pines unique to the region grace the landscape, the snow capped French Alps in the distance provide a stunning backdrop, and boats both large and small are to be seen everywhere. The homes are built for the comfort of the uber rich, the boutiques cater to the nouveau-riche with money to burn (and questionable taste). Restaurants line the promenade next to the beach, and to my surprise tables are set up on the sand for dining served by a barefooted wait staff! The harbour is home to giant yachts and elegant bayliners, as well as sleek racing vessels that were being prepped by well tanned and muscular crewmen for the upcoming annual regatta. The focal point of Antibes is the Musée Picasso which is housed in a castle-esque structure overlooking the bay surrounded by quiet little narrow passageways, the old village of Antibes. In the center of old town an open air market offers fresh fruits and vegetables for sale in the morning. Then the vendors disappear and are replaced with bistro tables for the lunch crowd to sit and enjoy a sandwich, a beer, or a refreshing glace. Little shops sell the usual touristic kitsch; T shirts, postcards and brightly coloured flotation devices, but the real fun is to explore the little streets where you will find a charming old church, a cat perched on a windowsill, and potted flowers accessorizing the front stoop of an ancient dwelling. The peaceful ambiance of old Antibes is in juxtaposition to the excesses of wealthy partiers who will arrive soon to dance in trendy nightclubs until dawn, bathe in Cristal, (literally-they prefer to waste the finest champagne rather than drink it) and snort bowls of cocaine. It is the joie de vivre, the joy of life!