"The King is dead, Long live the King!"

Are you a fan of architecture? Is geneology your passion, or history, or perhaps funereal art? The Basilique St. Denis has you covered! Built in the 5th century, rennovated in the 12th, looted by revolutionaries in the 18th, and restored in the 19th, it was one of the most powerful Benedictine Abbeys in the Middle Ages. Cavernous and quiet, it's ambience is more one of a necropolis than a place of worship, having hosted the tombs of 42 kings, 32 queens, 63 princes and princesses - from Dagobert in the 7th century to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, whose remains were finally exhumed from their paupers grave and interred here. I toured this incredible place today with Madame M, who generously offered some delicious tidbits of history; pointing out the recumbant statues of Pepin the Short and his wife Berthe Big Feet. I kid you not, they called the queen of France "Berthe Big Feet"! There was also a "Charles the Crazy" and a "Henry the Huge" (apparantly he was well hung). We laughed as I explained that in America we had "Tricky Dicky" and "Slick Willy", the latter being an excellent double entendre. I was moved by the story of her favorite king Henry IV, who was assassinated in the streets of the Marais while riding in his coach, on the way to a meeting with his top advisor, Sully. In a twist of fate his coach ended up in a traffic jam, blocked by a delivery wagon of wine. His assassin seized the opportunity, and jumping into the coach fatally stabbed the King of France. Immediately following the Revolution, Henry's well preserved remains were seized by looters, unceremoniously thrown into a vat of lime and destroyed. The remains of most of the monarchs of France suffered a similar fate, their artfully sculpted tombs smashed to bits as revolutionaries attempted to obliterate all memory of their oppressors. 51 corpses were destroyed in two days in August, 1793. Despite all the carnage, the Basilica is home to over 70 recumbant statues and tombs, a collection truly unique to Europe. I am always fascinated how a talented sculpteur can capture the essence of a human soul in stone; her emotion, his tenderness, arrogance or piety. C'est magnifique! You can visit the Basilique St. Denis Tuesday through Sunday from 10h-18h. Tariff for viewing the necropolis and crypt is 7 euro. Take Metro ligne 13 to Basilique St. Denis and follow the signs.