"The Grass is Always Greener..."

It's true that when one lives in the city, one can't wait to get out to the country for a bit of quiet and relaxation. And vice-versa, when you are a country girl you love going to the city where the action is! That's where the suburbs come in. With their proximity to the hub, it takes very little effort to enjoy a night out at the theatre, a romantic dinner at the latest trendy eatery, or a major sports event, and return home to a less frenetic atmosphere. There are many "burbs" surrounding Paris, the line of deliniation often vague. One simply crosses the street and is no longer in Paris proper, the change in ambiance not as noticable as when you are further out. I personally chose to live in a suburb just south of the City of Lights, in a quiet yet elegant ville that affords me the best of both worlds. I can be in Paris in a mere ten minutes, I have a spectacular view of le Sacre Couer in Monmarte as well as the golden dome of Les Invalides, and there is little here to distract me from my writing. So naturally I like to go into the city for a change of pace! King Louis IVX had chateaus in Versailles and St. Germain des Prés to escape the oppresive heat and stench of Paris, as did anyone who was anyone. Today one can hop on the RER at St. Michel, and in a matter of minutes visit any number of historic and breathtakingly beautiful domaines in the 'burbs. Residing in one of most expensive cities in the world on a budget quite a bit lower than I enjoyed in married life, I have made a game of finding interesting places and events to enjoy free of charge - or nearly. It was on this search I discovered the Parc de Sceaux (pronounced "sews"). When I learned a free guided tour (albeit in french) was being offered of the castle and museum collections, I was all in. It was a perfect fall day, sunny and mild as I arrived in the suburb of Sceaux and followed the small crowd from the train station through residential streets toward the parc. It is an affluent ville with large, well manicured homes that frame quiet winding roads. I could hear nothing but birds chirping in the lush green trees that lined the streets, life was good here! A pleasant 15 minute walk lead me to a place I never could have expected, a vast and wonderous parc carved out of the forest centuries ago. The Chateau itself is a gem, with marketry floors, crystal chandeliers and mirrored shutters that protect ones furnishings from the damaging effects of the sun, whilst preserving a sense of light and space. Originally inhabited by Jean-Baptiste Colbert from 1670-1683, today it is home to an impressive collection of paintings, sculpture, and porcelein. Furniture crafted by cabinetmaker Pierre-Benoit Marcion, offered by Napoleon to the duc and duchesse de Trévise (occupants of the estate from 1829-1871), graces a small salon with an intricately inlaid floor. But as lovely as the chateau is, it's the grounds that knock your socks off! A jardin out back is defined by rows of cypress sculpted into cones, placed in perfect symmetry. A long strip of grass extends as far as the eye can see, and colorful wildflowers punctuate the landscape. To the left, a distant fountain shoots a steady stream of water towards the heavens, a subtle rainbow appearing out of the arc. I was drawn toward the beauty of it, I love me a fountain! I descended the terraced walkway, flanked by the soothing music of a waterfall on my left, a mysterious forested trail to my right. I soon realized this was a space that demanded a bicycle, the waterfall led to a large pond, which led to a lake, which led into the forest....even with all the joggers, lovers, and cyclists one can find solitude and bask in the glory of nature undisturbed. Like the Smithsonian, too big to see all in one day, I made a note to self: Return soon, with a bicycle, a picnic, and some friends! To find out more about the Chateau and Parc de Sceaux, go to: www.domaine-de-sceaux.fr/