"The Grass is Always Greener..."

It's true that when one lives in the city, one can't wait to get out to the country for a bit of quiet and relaxation. And vice-versa, when you are a country girl you love going to the city where the action is! That's where the suburbs come in. With their proximity to the hub, it takes very little effort to enjoy a night out at the theatre, a romantic dinner at the latest trendy eatery, or a major sports event, and return home to a less frenetic atmosphere. There are many "burbs" surrounding Paris, the line of deliniation often vague. One simply crosses the street and is no longer in Paris proper, the change in ambiance not as noticable as when you are further out. I personally chose to live in a suburb just south of the City of Lights, in a quiet yet elegant ville that affords me the best of both worlds. I can be in Paris in a mere ten minutes, I have a spectacular view of le Sacre Couer in Monmarte as well as the golden dome of Les Invalides, and there is little here to distract me from my writing. So naturally I like to go into the city for a change of pace! King Louis IVX had chateaus in Versailles and St. Germain des Prés to escape the oppresive heat and stench of Paris, as did anyone who was anyone. Today one can hop on the RER at St. Michel, and in a matter of minutes visit any number of historic and breathtakingly beautiful domaines in the 'burbs. Residing in one of most expensive cities in the world on a budget quite a bit lower than I enjoyed in married life, I have made a game of finding interesting places and events to enjoy free of charge - or nearly. It was on this search I discovered the Parc de Sceaux (pronounced "sews"). When I learned a free guided tour (albeit in french) was being offered of the castle and museum collections, I was all in. It was a perfect fall day, sunny and mild as I arrived in the suburb of Sceaux and followed the small crowd from the train station through residential streets toward the parc. It is an affluent ville with large, well manicured homes that frame quiet winding roads. I could hear nothing but birds chirping in the lush green trees that lined the streets, life was good here! A pleasant 15 minute walk lead me to a place I never could have expected, a vast and wonderous parc carved out of the forest centuries ago. The Chateau itself is a gem, with marketry floors, crystal chandeliers and mirrored shutters that protect ones furnishings from the damaging effects of the sun, whilst preserving a sense of light and space. Originally inhabited by Jean-Baptiste Colbert from 1670-1683, today it is home to an impressive collection of paintings, sculpture, and porcelein. Furniture crafted by cabinetmaker Pierre-Benoit Marcion, offered by Napoleon to the duc and duchesse de Trévise (occupants of the estate from 1829-1871), graces a small salon with an intricately inlaid floor. But as lovely as the chateau is, it's the grounds that knock your socks off! A jardin out back is defined by rows of cypress sculpted into cones, placed in perfect symmetry. A long strip of grass extends as far as the eye can see, and colorful wildflowers punctuate the landscape. To the left, a distant fountain shoots a steady stream of water towards the heavens, a subtle rainbow appearing out of the arc. I was drawn toward the beauty of it, I love me a fountain! I descended the terraced walkway, flanked by the soothing music of a waterfall on my left, a mysterious forested trail to my right. I soon realized this was a space that demanded a bicycle, the waterfall led to a large pond, which led to a lake, which led into the forest....even with all the joggers, lovers, and cyclists one can find solitude and bask in the glory of nature undisturbed. Like the Smithsonian, too big to see all in one day, I made a note to self: Return soon, with a bicycle, a picnic, and some friends! To find out more about the Chateau and Parc de Sceaux, go to: www.domaine-de-sceaux.fr/

Musée du Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

When my sister came to Paris for Christmas last year, she wanted to visit "the modern art museum", having seen images of it on a travel show before she arrived. Mistakenly, I took her to the Centre Pompidou. Where she had really wanted to go was the Musée du Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, one of the museums always free to the public. (my bad!) Located at the Palais du Tokyo, across the river from the Tour d'Eiffel near Pont d'Alma, it is full of delightful surprises. Sculpture, ceramics, paintings, and the coolest furniture I have ever seen is arranged in minimalist fashion, the space open and uncrowded. The permanent collection is impressive without overwhelming the senses, and you can get your museum "fix" without a day long commitment or fighting crowds of tourists. For a lovely afternoon in Paris on a dime, allow me to suggest a visit to the Musée du Art Moderne followed by a stroll along the Seine and across the river toward the Tour d'Eiffel. A walk through the Jardin du Musée Quai Branly is always free, and great place to feel removed from the pace of the city while still being in the middle of it! A picnic on the Champs de Mars in the shadow of the Tower offers an ambiance that's unparalleled, and fortified by a baguette and cheese, fresh fruit and a beer, you have lived like a true parisian (for 10 euro or less)! Visit the "MAMVP" Tuesday-Sunday from 10h-18h at 11 avenue President Wilson, metro ligne 9 to Alma-Marceau. Closed Mondays and holidays.

Little Gems: Le Petit Palais

I have walked past her countless times, admiring her beauty with a fleeting glance before continuing on my way, never taking the time to discover what she is like on the inside. What a fool I have been! For her inner beauty outshines her exterior hundred-fold....I am speaking of le Petit Palais. You'll find her at east end of the Champs Elysées, near Place du Concorde, facing her big sister Le Grand Palais. Calm and serene, light and airy, she boasts an eclectic collection of sculpture, paintings, and ceramics, as well as tapestry and furnishings. From neoclassical to realism, modernism to impressionism, (with a little Louis thrown in for good measure), she has something to offer everyone! A graceful escalier beckons one to discover the treasures she is willing to share so generously with anyone who knocks at her door - and unlike her cousin the Louvre, she is discreet - a gentle unassuming beauty so very easy to spend time with. And she asks nothing in return, you can visit the permanent exhibition free of charge Tuesday-Sunday from 10h-18h. If you are hungry, a café overlooking her beautiful jardin is just the thing! Take metro ligne 1 to Champs Elysées-Clemenceau.

The best things in life are free: Musée Cognacq-Jay

Discreetly tucked away on a quiet street in the Marais is a delightful little museum, home to an impressive array of art and furnishings once the private collection of Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay. Founders of the famous department store Samaritaine, the Cognacq-Jays' were philanthropists, collectors, and patrons of the arts. It is a lovely space, housed in the Hotel Donon, a typical 18th century structure replete with grand salons, detailed paneling, and parquet floorboards that groan beneath your feet. Not at all as popular as some of the more well known museums in town, it is nonetheless enjoyable as one moves through the space with ease, taking in the beauty of paintings by Boucher and Fragonard, sculpture by Pincet, Dresden miniatures, and furnishings constructed by master craftsmen. Bequeathed to the City of Paris many years ago it is a dream collection, offering the visitor an inside look at french style and taste from an era bygone. Serving up just enough to satisfy your craving for eye candy without being indigestable, the Musée Cognacq-Jay is a gem in the crown of Paris, well worth taking an hour out of your day to enjoy. Located at 8 rue Elzevir, the permanent collection is always free to the public from Tuesday through Sunday, 10h-18h. Take Metro ligne 1 to St. Paul.