Discreetly tucked away on a quiet street in the Marais is a delightful little museum, home to an impressive array of art and furnishings once the private collection of Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay. Founders of the famous department store Samaritaine, the Cognacq-Jays' were philanthropists, collectors, and patrons of the arts. It is a lovely space, housed in the Hotel Donon, a typical 18th century structure replete with grand salons, detailed paneling, and parquet floorboards that groan beneath your feet. Not at all as popular as some of the more well known museums in town, it is nonetheless enjoyable as one moves through the space with ease, taking in the beauty of paintings by Boucher and Fragonard, sculpture by Pincet, Dresden miniatures, and furnishings constructed by master craftsmen. Bequeathed to the City of Paris many years ago it is a dream collection, offering the visitor an inside look at french style and taste from an era bygone. Serving up just enough to satisfy your craving for eye candy without being indigestable, the Musée Cognacq-Jay is a gem in the crown of Paris, well worth taking an hour out of your day to enjoy. Located at 8 rue Elzevir, the permanent collection is always free to the public from Tuesday through Sunday, 10h-18h. Take Metro ligne 1 to St. Paul.
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